Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,189 total · 25/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a climb located 2 gullies west of The Shroud up another long gully. There are a number of ice bits that form here. This is probably the most reliable of the bits. Please, beware of avalanche conditions. Expect an aerobic approach.

Ascend this gully to a fork above. At the Y is a thin mixed climb, that often doesn't touch down. To the left is an easier WI3 pitch, name Unnamed Gully on this website. Round The Corner is up and right.

P1. A nice pillar, sometimes with funky, funky ice. Snapped off a pick in cold, cold conditions. 70 feet or so. 2 bolt anchors at the top of the 1st pitch, although they can be buried in the ice/snow.

P2. Above this 1st pitch lies another WI3 pitch. You can walk off left for the 2nd pitch back to the top of P1.

Aesthetic setting though you still see/hear I-70.

Note, at least one good climber has been taken on this climb from an avalanche.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws, consider an Abalakov-like hook & spare sling.

Approach Suggest change

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.

ATES (Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale) Rating Suggest change

As determined by Climb Avy Aware:

  • ATES 3: Complex

ATES Scale:

Non-Avalanche: 0 (Routes with no exposure to avalanches except small sluffs and spindrift.)

Simple: 1 (Routes with brief exposure to very low frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing occasional short slopes.)

Challenging: 2 (Routes with long exposure to low frequency avalanches or brief exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing a few short slopes.Options to reduce exposure.)

Complex: 3 (Routes with long exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing steep slopes with terrain traps below. Minimal options to reduce exposure.)

Extreme: 4 (Routes with long and sustained exposure to very high frequency avalanches starting from above and crossing multiple steep slopes with terrain traps below. No options to reduce exposure.)