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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch
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Chimney T M4 |
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Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+ |
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Crown of Thorns T M4+ |
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Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5 |
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Holy Grail S M7 |
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Jack Roberts TR WI2-3 |
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Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+ |
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Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2 |
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Round the Corner T WI4-5 |
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Shroud, The T WI3-4 |
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Sneaky 1 T WI2 Mod. Snow |
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Spectre T WI3+ M4 R |
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Three Tiers T WI2+ |
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Tony's Nightmare T WI3+ |
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Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R |
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Unnamed Gully T WI2-3 |
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Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 Mod. Snow R |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,720 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is as fun as WI2 gets. Walk past The Shroud and Tony's Nightmare to an obvious, long gully in a rocky section of the canyon, about 20-30 minutes and past a prominent side canyon. The route consists of three steep steps separated by long stretches of snow groveling and low angle ice. The first tier is the crux and is about 45 feet long, and the remaining tiers get easier and shorter. The gully is about 400 feet long or so, but only three stretches are technical.
This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.
Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.
This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.
Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.
Protection
A few screws, maybe some rock gear for belays.
From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.
From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.
Photos
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