Type: Trad, Ice, 600 ft (182 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 11,280 total · 17/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is as fun as WI2 gets. Walk past The Shroud and Tony's Nightmare to an obvious, long gully in a rocky section of the canyon, about 20-30 minutes and past a prominent side canyon. The route consists of three steep steps separated by long stretches of snow groveling and low angle ice. The first tier is the crux and is about 45 feet long, and the remaining tiers get easier and shorter. The gully is about 400 feet long or so, but only three stretches are technical.

This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.

Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.

Protection Suggest change

A few screws, maybe some rock gear for belays.

From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.

Per Ellen S: you cannot rap from the top of the route using a single rope. You can rap from the top of the 2nd tier using a 70m and the 3 anchors described above.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

Multipitch gully, so no toproping here.

ATES (Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale) Rating Suggest change

As determined by Climb Avy Aware:

  • ATES 3: Complex

ATES Scale:

Non-Avalanche: 0 (Routes with no exposure to avalanches except small sluffs and spindrift.)

Simple: 1 (Routes with brief exposure to very low frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing occasional short slopes.)

Challenging: 2 (Routes with long exposure to low frequency avalanches or brief exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing a few short slopes.Options to reduce exposure.)

Complex: 3 (Routes with long exposure to high frequency avalanches starting from above or crossing steep slopes with terrain traps below. Minimal options to reduce exposure.)

Extreme: 4 (Routes with long and sustained exposure to very high frequency avalanches starting from above and crossing multiple steep slopes with terrain traps below. No options to reduce exposure.)

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