Type: | Trad, Ice |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 7,720 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2017 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Description
This is as fun as WI2 gets. Walk past The Shroud and Tony's Nightmare to an obvious, long gully in a rocky section of the canyon, about 20-30 minutes and past a prominent side canyon. The route consists of three steep steps separated by long stretches of snow groveling and low angle ice. The first tier is the crux and is about 45 feet long, and the remaining tiers get easier and shorter. The gully is about 400 feet long or so, but only three stretches are technical.
This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.
Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.
This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.
Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.
Protection
A few screws, maybe some rock gear for belays.
From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.
From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.
Westminster, Colorado
Also walked by the Shroud and the left side is about as fat as it ever gets for this time of year, the center curtain is touching down in several spots and the right looks solid. Didn't see anyone else the whole day.
Fat, blue and plastic. Snow shoes are recommended, but not required. Jan 2, 2003
Dysfunctional, CO
Recommended for a long easy/moderate day. Expect a little rock climbing/scrambling (4th/5th class) and some serious snow slogging (beware of Avi conditions!). We climbed this route and found 5 pitches of ice. In order: Solo WI2-, Solo low 5th class, P1: WI2, P2: WI2-3, P3: WI3-4, P4: WI2-3, P5: WI2-3. Every pitch is full-length (200 ft.), and then some. Bring a 70m rope, plan to simul-climb, or set annoying belays.
You can see P2 & P3 from the road as you approach (see pictures). P4 is 500+ ft. above P3 via a snow gully. It is hidden up and left. There are easier and harder ways to climb most pitches. The ice was good, and if you're masochistic, you can probably climb to the summit.
We rapped after P4 (200 ft. rappel), then exited left above P3. I would recommend exiting left immediately after P3 (crux pitch) unless you plan to summit. After walking up just a little, you descend into the gully containing "Unnamed Gully", "Unnamed Curtain", and "Round the Corner". Choose your descent carefully so you don't cliff out. Also, beware of Avi conditions on this descent!
Avalanche Danger: I have not taken a course, so my best guess is that it is 'okay' right now. I could see how this area could become VERY DANGEROUS. We snow-slogged up to our knees/thighs in some places at ~30 deg angle. Nov 22, 2006
Cortez, co
Colorado
Lafayette, Colorado
Evergreen, CO
Parker, CO
Frisco
More importantly, if it's a weekend or busy day, walking off is probably a much better idea for everyone than rappelling. The six(!!!) parties on Three Tiers today was enough of a Charlie Foxtrot to begin with, and three parties rapping while the others climbed made it much worse. The way down is more straightforward than a lot of the descents in Eldo and a couple short raps from trees tame the slabs (bring webbing). If no one is below, you enjoy the bolts, but if there's a party (or 2 or 3) coming up, it's easy, faster, and safer for everyone to walk off. Dec 8, 2012
Loveland
Lost (dropped) a BD screw! If found, please let me know :) Dec 10, 2012
Boulder,CO
Boulder, CO