Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,720 total · 14/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

This is as fun as WI2 gets. Walk past The Shroud and Tony's Nightmare to an obvious, long gully in a rocky section of the canyon, about 20-30 minutes and past a prominent side canyon. The route consists of three steep steps separated by long stretches of snow groveling and low angle ice. The first tier is the crux and is about 45 feet long, and the remaining tiers get easier and shorter. The gully is about 400 feet long or so, but only three stretches are technical.

This route is probably easiest to solo, because it isn't sustained, which is how I did the route, so I don't have good belay beta. The walk off isn't much fun-lots of bushwhacking and scrambling on the east side of the route. There are no fixed rap anchors in the gully.

Eds. beware of avalanche conditions here.

Protection

A few screws, maybe some rock gear for belays.

From Rob Griz: There are 3 anchors on this. The first is on the right, 2 bolt. The second is on the right on the tree. The third is on the left wall, 2 bolts, as you climb up. All are about 30-40 m apart.

Toprope Protection

Multipitch gully, so no toproping here.

Photos