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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 807 total, 16/month
Shared By: Rob Griz on Nov 14, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Three Tiers is most well know for its fat and consistent lower half. After glassing the route's upper pitches, we headed out for a moonlit solo to the end of the ice, 1,500'+ above 10 Mile Creek. The line goes at WI3+/4-R with some potential M4/5.6 climbing. Protection can be sparse in places due to poor features for gear, although where you find solid rock, there are excellent holds. There was another group that had climbed this a day or so before, which set some new rap stations mixed in with the old.

An excellent outing that one could possibly call the "Polar Circus" of 10 Mile Canyon. The mid-route crux can be delaminated or non-existent and is reached by walking right up a gully that bypasses an overhanging 60' face that rarely if ever forms ice. We face climbed 70' of face and stepped right on thin, delaminated ice in the upper crux to continue to the tiers above. It also appears that one could skirt the entire 30m crux with 5.6 R rock climbing to climber's left on a loose, broken gully/ledge system. The old bolt anchor could use replacement as only one flattened hanger remains. We simul-rapped the upper half and downclimbed the lower half for a 4 hour round-trip adventure in the backyard.

As mentioned for Three Tiers, this is a massive terrain trap. It is a great fall alpine route before enough snow falls to create deadly avalanche potential. Up high we experienced 2' of wind-blown in the gully with 3" windslab. It is not a place to be with any significant snowfall.

Protection

The rock in 10 Mile Canyon is typically slabby and devoid of many gear placements. That said, there are times when you can get a cam or pin in spotty places. Trees usually afford the 'best' pro. We soloed, but I could maybe see a set of link cams and a few thin pins (KBs, LAs) and a single 60m rope. There may be a way to walk off on climber's left through the trees, but it would be a tedious hassle indeed unless you wish to drop into Round the Corner.

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