Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Tom Dickey?
Page Views: 1,830 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 29, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Fun, funky route that looks less steep and less interesting than it is. Right of Round the Corner. Up verglas in middle of slab. Up rock up the plumb line to smattering of ice to short bit of ice at the top. 100' to ground.

Protection

Would need bolts or thin pins to protect on lead. Can TR off anchor for Right of Round the Corner.

Toprope Protection

There is an anchor to the right with slings around a root backed up to an angle and jammed knots.

Approach

Probably an hour. Expect 1000' of gain.

Photos

- No Photos -
Cheyenne Chaffee
North Conway, NH
Cheyenne Chaffee   North Conway, NH
I've climbed this route several times over the years. It's a nice alternative if the pillar on Round the Corner is sketchy/out/too hard. The conditions vary a lot year to year. Some short screws and a small selection of wires, cams (0.5-2), and nerves help protect the route. It can be topped out as a long (150ft) pitch, but the upper rock gully is fairly loose and hard to protect. That being said, it's worth it and will send you on your way to the upper pitches of Round the Corner. Dec 6, 2012
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
Please be aware that an ice dam can form on this route.

When we climbed the left side of this route on 1/20/06, I broke an ice dam. The route was in very fat - it was ice only, about WI3. The dam was on the low-angle bench just before the final ice step. While leading the upper step, I broke off piece of ice. When the ice landed on the flatter section it broke the dam. A sheet of ice about 5 feet by 10 feet wide and 1 foot deep exploded off the (climber's) right side of the climb, just below what is usually the rock section. Water loudly gushed out of the hole for a couple minutes. It was impressive.

Since I was above the dam and my belayer was down and left, neither of us was in danger. Jan 21, 2007
This climb has been protected by confidence in climbing ability. Mar 29, 2003