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Routes in Tenmile Canyon aka Officer's Gulch

Chimney T M4
Compounded Fractures TR WI3 M6+
Crown of Thorns T M4-5
Fish Out of Water WI5 M4-5
Holy Grail S M7
Jack Roberts TR WI2-3
Plumb, The T WI4+ M6+
Right of Round the Corner T WI4 M2
Round the Corner T WI4-5
Shroud, The T WI3-4
Sneaky 1 T WI2 Mod. Snow
Spectre T WI3+ M4 R
Three Tiers T WI2+
Tony's Nightmare T WI3+
Tres Amigos T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M5 R
Tres Amigos T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3+ M6 Mod. Snow PG13
Unnamed Gully T WI2-3
Upper Tiers T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M4 Mod. Snow R
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Type: TR, Ice, 100 ft
FA: N/A
Page Views: 125 total · 22/month
Shared By: RyanSender on Jan 8, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

Note*: I have not seen this in any of the guidebooks and doing research have not found any information online. If anyone knows information about the F/A or name, please feel free to update. For now, I thought we could post it as a dedication to Jack Roberts.

This is a fun little flow on Mt. Victoria that goes for about 100 feet or so. The right side of the flow goes about WI2 depending on how fat the ice is. The left side of the flow offers about 10 feet of WI3 then eases off to WI2-. The crux is about halfway up, pulling over the bulge, but is super fun and can be well-protected.

As far as avy danger, this is in a natural slide path; however, there is dense forest above and below. These trees provide a good anchor system for snow, minimizing the danger. However, you are still very exposed to potential slides.

Due to the low slope angle, this flow is easily buried after a wind load event, or just normal snowfall. The best time to climb it is when there is little snow on the ground or after a dry spell.

The hike up is interesting and requires some navigation skill.

Location [Suggest Change]

Park in the parking lot below Mt. Royal near the bike path.

Cross the bridge, and walk 3/4 of a mile down the bike path. Find a good exit point, and hike up a gully with scattered aspen trees. The vertical gain is about 700 feet once you leave the bike path. Stay in the gully, and you will eventually come to the base of the climb.

The approach time depends on snowpack, route finding, and fitness level.

Protection [Suggest Change]

3-6 ice screws and no bolts.

Rappel off of trees.

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