Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Jay Smith circa 1988
Page Views: 1,268 total · 7/month
Shared By: Chad Umbel on Jan 20, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is a mixed route unless you want to make a long runout in the beginning and at the finish of the climb; don't go up with just quickdraws! Start left on the face well below the first of the four protection bolts with easy moves. Then power up left past the roof into a shallow corner. Pull more exposed moves onto slab and climb straight up to a fixed anchor. Fun route with exciting climbing.

Protection

A few cams from 00' tcu to 1", a few small nut, a few quickdraws, and 2 over the shoulder slings.

Photos

Drew Peterson
  5.11-
Drew Peterson  
  5.11-
I used different beta, moving to the right of the undercling block... I found this route to be varied, exciting and really awesome. Mar 6, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a/b
A fine route with a bold feel, although its actually pretty well protected. Take a #2 and #3 camalot to protect the run to the first bolt.

If you're in the area, its well worth having a go- fairly safe, although you could take a pretty good fall if you fell trying to clip the second bolt. May 3, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a R
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.11a R
I didn't manage to find any pro. Soloing to the first bolt is def. R. Didn't see really much for gear options, but some may exist. My R rating is only for the beta I used. A tricam looked like it would have fit well in a pod near the bottom. I didn't have one. Feb 25, 2014
Michael Kimm
Denver, CO
  5.11-
Michael Kimm   Denver, CO
  5.11-
There are two different nut options low, both completely bomber placements. Large tricams, or either a #.75 or #2 Camalot can fit in the pocket section, so there are two very good pieces before the first bolt. No R rating here! If you're leading the grade, jump on it! The climb is excellent! Feb 25, 2014