Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sunnyside Crags

Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blast From the Past T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold September Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotham City T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot August Night T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Magellanic Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meteor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mister Masters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pit Bull T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tarantula T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tie me Tightly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Allen Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Water Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, 1980s
Page Views: 981 total, 6/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


30 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This is a decent route, but a somewhat tricky lead for the grade, with some loose rock.

Start in the very smooth, varnished dihedral about 40 feet left of the Shady Ladies corner, and 20 feet left of Magellanic Cloud. The initial moves are a little tricky, and there is no protection for about 20 feet or so, hence the serious rating. It's not really too bad. Later on, there potential for your rope to get stuck in a crack and cause SERIOUS drag, so watch for that. The last moves are on some crumbly rock with less-than-ideal protection. End at the communal belay ledge.

Protection

Standard trad rack

Photos

bart cubrich 1
  5.7 PG13
bart cubrich 1  
  5.7 PG13
I don't know about the R either, but be aware that just because you can put a lot of cams and nuts in a route doesn't mean that it's safe. I found the rock quality on this route low in spots, so I was worried about knocking off large chunks of rocks and then falling on placements that were in more crumbly rock. Usually route's don't get an R for a run-out start because 20ft is just a tallish boulder. Jan 18, 2015
Ben Townsend  
 
I got a good Tricam in a pocket just before the climbing got serious. After that, I don't recall any issues with the protection at all. Pretty easy for the grade. The pitch is just over 100', but a one-rope rappel works fine. Nov 18, 2013
Franz N
Mass.
 
Franz N   Mass.
 
Runout to start, but nice ledge once done. Lookout for rope drag cause the climb meanders left and right under a roof. Then you hit the awesome exposure. Sun and wind hits you all at once when you are about 60-70 feet up. Can be a bit runout near the end. Mar 5, 2013
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 PG13
The start for the climb is unprotected for about 20 feet and then the end was pretty spotty as well. The runout ending was quite juggy, so not bad. Nov 4, 2012
TedV
Lost Wages
 
TedV   Lost Wages
 
You should use a double rope system with this route so as to totally eliminate rope drag. The traverse is easy, but if you did slip it would hurt. Still gets an R because of that. Fun climb, but kind of convoluted Nov 9, 2008
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
I mean, it's no Cold September Corner, but the pro is pretty thin up top. Apr 24, 2007
Josh Audrey
LAS VEGAS
 
Josh Audrey   LAS VEGAS
 
the drag is not that bad if you extend your placements properly. i would not give this an R rating. i'm still a young buck to trad, but i laced this thing up tight. Apr 8, 2007
Sandro
Calgary, AB
  5.7
Sandro   Calgary, AB
  5.7
This is a great route with wild exposure for its grade Dec 4, 2006