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Routes in Sunnyside Crags

Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blast From the Past T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold September Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotham City T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot August Night T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Magellanic Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meteor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mister Masters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pit Bull T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tarantula T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tie me Tightly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Allen Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Water Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Joe Herbst, Stephanie Petrilak, and Bill Bradley, 1978
Page Views: 5,231 total, 31/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Mar 6, 2004 with updates
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start in the corner to the right of the low roof which forms a cave in the middle of Sunnyside Crags. Climb the corner crack up through a couple roofs to a anchor under another big roof. This route is very intimidating for the grade, but the moves are there and are very enjoyable.

Protection

Standard rack to #4 Camalot.

Photos

SergeiD Didur
  5.8+
SergeiD Didur  
  5.8+
Great climb. Intimidating at first but good holds always around.
2 New bolt anchor is on the right.
You may not need #4 cam for the roof - #3 would be Ok. Nov 26, 2017
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
  5.8+
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
  5.8+
Ya, its a great climb but harder than any of the 5.9s I did on my last trip down. If you want an even harder 5.8 check out Atras across the way. Protection should be edited to include up to 4 camalot. Nov 9, 2016
PaulMudd
Las Vegas, NV
 
PaulMudd   Las Vegas, NV
 
Definitely a Joe Herbst 5.8! Really fun and heady for the grade, looks more intimadating than it really is. Definitely bring a #4 for the roof! Apr 24, 2016
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.8+
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.8+
Had a really good time on the route. I usually lead around 5.8 trad and felt it was a solid 5.8. Good rests, but definitely had to figure out both roofs. There is an escape around the first roof to the right on exposed face after placing a bomber # 5 in roof crack....120cm sling. Or you can stay in wide roof crack and kind of chimney around it.

70m got me to ground no prob......great 2-bolt anchor at top of corner on great varnish. Great for top rope....no pulling issues. The guide book says to traverse to left at the top of the corner to a shared anchor, but I never saw that. Apr 1, 2014
Sasha Cohen
South Lake Tahoe CA
Sasha Cohen   South Lake Tahoe CA
This is the first route I've ever climbed at the Red Rocks and I've been climbing about 7 years. I didn't think it was rated correctly. It was rated in the 70's when 5 10's were the highest rating. It was harder than any 5 8 I've ever done. The gear was good when there was gear. The first roof was really tricky and I would not recommend it to beginning leaders. The rock was beautiful. The area was beautiful. Just not a 5 8. Oct 17, 2013
Jared Wicks
Las Vegas
  5.8+
Jared Wicks   Las Vegas
  5.8+
Super fun route with excellent gear placements. Definitely bring a #4 for the roof! As for the fixed #3 cam, I don't believe it is there anymore. The piton on the route is bomber and I believe it's from the FA (at least that's the word on the streets). There's also a wired nut that has become one with the rock and isn't going anywhere. This route is a perfect climb for when the temps are 100+ in the valley. The roof can be a bit intimidating but the holds are there. Jul 17, 2013
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Fun climb! As intimidating as the climb appears, the holds are all solid and in the right spot, you just gotta find them! The fixed cam that has been mentioned is gone. Definitely bring a #4 for the roof. There is a piton to the right once you get up that seems pretty solid (not much experience with those). Definitely a climb you gotta do if you are in the area. Nov 4, 2012
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
Probably the best single pitch of 5.8 in the park- or damn close to it. I seriously can't believe I climbed here for nearly a decade before getting on this thing. So classic!

Bring a #4 for the roof to supplement the fixed piece at the lip and some extra smallish stuff (to #0.75 camalot) for gear.

A single 60m will get you off it, but just barely- I'd say its probably exactly 100'. Jul 11, 2011
Mark J Gain
  5.8+
Mark J Gain  
  5.8+
I think its longer than 60 Ft. Great route and one of the funnest pitches I have done in RR. And to have done it with Karen just made it that more special! Roofs, good jams, stemming, face climbing etc... its all there in one long pitch! Cool cave to hang out in at the belay too. The fixed #3 cam in the first roof is there for good, its trashed anyways but if you see it you know your on the correct route. May 23, 2011
dana eyde  
 
A great route for people who are newer to roofs. The roof-corner is high enough to make for a bit of psych-out factor; but when you arrive there it's possible to actually "sit," with legs stemming out to either a Coach legroom or Business Class legroom, giving one time to take some deep breaths and gather one's self for the exposure move to clear the corner. With the length of my legs, i chose Business Class, although on an airplane they would probably kick me out of that section. Mar 30, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Super fun. The roof was cool.. #4 and #3.5 camalot sewed it up, and I ended up chimneying across facing left. Good times! 60m rope just makes it. Oct 4, 2009
Scott Miller
Denver, CO
 
Scott Miller   Denver, CO
 
I thought this climb was a ton of fun!! It sealed the deal for my love of Red Rock. Mar 31, 2008
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
 
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
 
A good route: it looks harder than it is. May 4, 2007
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.8
Probably the best moderate at this crag. Good protection and fun moves. Apr 23, 2007
Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
  5.8
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
  5.8
One of the most classic pitches I have done at Red Rocks. A cool route with improbably easy moves. Sep 27, 2006
d-know
electric lady land
  5.8
d-know   electric lady land
  5.8
a big roof with jugs is not to be missed. i had a blast Jan 26, 2006
A fun, interesting route! You won't experience boredom on it, that's for sure! The roof move was pure fun after figuring out how to protect it. The only thing I didn't care that much for on the climb was the awkward stance and move over to the uncomfortable hanging belay, but who said climbing's all pleasure and no pain? May 25, 2005
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
  5.8
This is such a great route. The roof looks totally improbable but when climbing it, the moves are all there and it's well protected with #4 and #3.5 Camalots. I've done a second pitch to this route, which wasn't as stellar but fun nonetheless. There is no fixed anchor for pitch 2 but plenty of gear placements. We walked left, up canyon, for quite some ways until we found a rappel anchor in a waterstreak. The anchor was a natural thread with slings and rings and we rapped with two ropes. May 8, 2005