Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jineen Griffith and Barbara Euser, 1978
Page Views: 2,617 total · 15/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


85 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Begin in the left facing corner that is located about 20 feet left of the low roof which forms a cave in the center of Sunnyside Crags. Climb the corner most of the way up, then move left onto the face. An easy hand traverse on loose holds takes you left to a ledge and a communla anchor. This is a good beginners lead, plus gives you the opportunity to top rope the excellent Magellanic Cloud.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot, bring long slings

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Climbs better than it looks. No idea why we traverse left to the shared anchor. A 5.7 roof tops the corner and would be a much nicer way to go... if there was an anchor up there. Feb 14, 2007
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
This route is more like 100ft, as when you lower off it takes an entire 60m. I agree with Russ that continuing up through the roof seems like it would be a much better finish. Slightly better than 2 *'s. Apr 23, 2007
Jonathan Simonton   Chandler
Awesome route. Good lead if your new to leading. I am and I felt very secure on the wall. Mar 23, 2012
Franz N
Mass.
  5.7
Franz N   Mass.
  5.7
First ever trad lead over 100 feet. Great c,IBM with lots of rests and foot holds. Watch out for rope drag. Definitely try to extend the climb when making the traverse over to the anchors. Mar 5, 2013
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
Fun climb at the grade. Good protection available throughout first 2/3 of climb. Then you transition from the corner to the face and into a leftward traverse......the protection is limited at best, and what ever you decide to place will make rope drag an issue for the last 10 feet......or so. Best if led....then bring up your second.....then you both rap. IMHO

The anchor is a mix of Tat and a " star" bolt. I backed it all up with bomber gear for belay and first rap. Very fun just have this in mind as you head up there. Would love to see a good anchor placed in there. Apr 1, 2014
Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
 
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
 
50 ft? more like 100. which is good. cause it's fun. do it. Apr 28, 2015