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Routes in Sunnyside Crags

Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cold September Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotham City T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot August Night T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Magellanic Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meteor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mister Masters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pit Bull T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tarantula T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tie me Tightly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Allen Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Water Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jineen Griffith and Barbara Euser, 1978
Page Views: 2,269 total, 14/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


78 Opinions

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Begin in the left facing corner that is located about 20 feet left of the low roof which forms a cave in the center of Sunnyside Crags. Climb the corner most of the way up, then move left onto the face. An easy hand traverse on loose holds takes you left to a ledge and a communla anchor. This is a good beginners lead, plus gives you the opportunity to top rope the excellent Magellanic Cloud.

Protection

Standard rack to #3 camalot, bring long slings

Photos

Vince Buffalini
Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7
Vince Buffalini   Las Vegas, Nevada
  5.7
50 ft? more like 100. which is good. cause it's fun. do it. Apr 28, 2015
Mtnfly
El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
Mtnfly   El Segundo, Ca
  5.7
Fun climb at the grade. Good protection available throughout first 2/3 of climb. Then you transition from the corner to the face and into a leftward traverse......the protection is limited at best, and what ever you decide to place will make rope drag an issue for the last 10 feet......or so. Best if led....then bring up your second.....then you both rap. IMHO

The anchor is a mix of Tat and a " star" bolt. I backed it all up with bomber gear for belay and first rap. Very fun just have this in mind as you head up there. Would love to see a good anchor placed in there. Apr 1, 2014
Franz N
Mass.
  5.7
Franz N   Mass.
  5.7
First ever trad lead over 100 feet. Great c,IBM with lots of rests and foot holds. Watch out for rope drag. Definitely try to extend the climb when making the traverse over to the anchors. Mar 5, 2013
Jonathan Simonton   Chandler
Awesome route. Good lead if your new to leading. I am and I felt very secure on the wall. Mar 23, 2012
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.7
This route is more like 100ft, as when you lower off it takes an entire 60m. I agree with Russ that continuing up through the roof seems like it would be a much better finish. Slightly better than 2 *'s. Apr 23, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Climbs better than it looks. No idea why we traverse left to the shared anchor. A 5.7 roof tops the corner and would be a much nicer way to go... if there was an anchor up there. Feb 14, 2007