Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Danny Meyers; 1987
Page Views: 4,456 total · 26/month
Shared By: Chad Umbel on Jan 20, 2005
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

90 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.


Standard rack of cams, HB offsets are nice.


Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
This is the steepest trad 5.9 I've been on. Its overhanging, yet tons of huge holds make it 5.9. Take some small gear (black alien) for the top slabby traverse. Feb 12, 2007
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
a second #2 camalot (or equivalent) will protect the traverse nicely...no need for micro gear.

really amazing climb, though- steep, fun, surprisingly well protected, and a thoughtful finish! full value for sure! Mar 19, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
Excellent climb! Juggy thuggery on the bottom.... delicate and thoughtful up top. Plenty of protection up top that appears right when you need it (HB offsets went in perfectly). No move is very hard, but hanging out the place gear guarantees a 10- pump.

Be sure to find the best protection possible before starting the traverse to protect your second below. Oct 4, 2009
Red River Gorge stylie! No crux on this but a pump crux. The traverse up top takes a good #3 camalot, I'd suggest SR-3" with doubles from .75"-3". With that rack you can place only cams, you can go with a single set of cams if you want to place some wires, which are fine, they'll just pump you out more.

The anchor on this has been replaced as off 11/11. You should be good to belay your second up and be able to lower or rap down from the 3-bolt station regardless of whether there's anyone TRing Spring Break. Nov 3, 2011
mmacelhi   Gunks
STEEP but juggy with good gear. Super fun access to the harder climbs to the left if you want to TR them May 7, 2014

Pumpfest! Jan 2, 2019
Michael Leary
Los Angeles, CA
Michael Leary   Los Angeles, CA
Good rock, fun steep line with great holds. Didn’t feel a distinct crux, just the overall pump factor is the hardest part if your not moving quick enough bc it’s much steeper than most other 5.9 trad lines out there. Jan 22, 2019