Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: FKA Zachary Loman and Craig Streit
Page Views: 518 total · 18/month
Shared By: Zachary Loman on Apr 3, 2019
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Shares the anchors with Shady Ladies, Van Allen Belt and Magellenic Cloud and combines pieces of all three. Our intent was to avoid the unprotectable start of Van Allen Belt, and bring the R rating down to a PG13. Start is the same as Shady Ladies, get a piece of pro and then begin climbing up and to the left (instead of continuing up Shady Ladies crack) onto Magellenic Cloud, at the bulge in the middle of MC go left instead of right to put yourself onto Van Allen Belt, work around the corner and up to the same ledge/anchor. PG13 rating is due to tricky pro at the top (same as V.A.B.), and because the route works around a corner, and the potential to get the rope stuck is high (as I did while run out above a C3 0.2 on the FA). Go light on pro and extend just about everything.

Location

Same start as Shady Ladies. This is just up canyon (climbers left) from the two large roofs.

Protection

Doubles to #2 should do it. You can find a place for a number #3 C4 near the top. Top is tricky to protect. Runners/alpine draws essential.

Photos