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Routes in Sunnyside Crags

Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blast From the Past T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cold September Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotham City T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot August Night T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Magellanic Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meteor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mister Masters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pit Bull T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tarantula T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tie me Tightly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Allen Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Water Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Unknown, 1980s
Page Views: 2,774 total, 17/month
Shared By: Matt Faust on Mar 6, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge.

Wonderful climbing on great rock.

Protection

Gear to #3 Camalot
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You can make the traverse much less scary by making a reachy .3 camalot placement in a small crack above and right of the large cam placements. You get a bomber 4 after the traverse and can gear in between these pieces also. Nov 9, 2016
bart cubrich 1  
  5.9
I'd agree that the 5.9 moves a re a little spicy. You can also places a #2 or #3 slightly to to the left of where the crack takes a #4. I extended that piece with a double length sling and still had drag because I placed to early after the crux. Make sure to extend your next few pieces a good bit as well (single lengths were not enough), or run it out. Jan 18, 2015
mmacelhi
  5.8+
mmacelhi  
  5.8+
a great pitch of climbing. doubles are helpful but not needed. jugs, cracks, roofs, step outs. it has it all. in terms of the step out, yeah it is a bit exposed, but thats what makes it trad climbing rather than a gym. i thought it protected just fine May 7, 2014
I found this sketchy. Onsite it or don't do it. Oct 1, 2013
Edward Pyune
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
Edward Pyune   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
A #4 camalot (or maybe something a little bigger) with an extender is great for protecting the roof for the traverse, although it requires you to downclimb just a little afterwards. Once I got the piece in with a double length sling, felt totally comfortable going for the traverse, which was a lot easier than I initially thought it was gonna be. Nov 4, 2012
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.9+
This route has in my opinion a totally sketchy anchor at the top. There is one bolt which is of a style I have not seen before, and the other anchor point is a sling around a column that is now entirely cracked through at the top. I built my own anchor and only used the existing anchor to rap off of. I recommend bringing enough gear on this route to build your own top rope anchor. Dec 29, 2010
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it Apr 10, 2008
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.9 PG13
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.9 PG13
I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun... Apr 23, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.8
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.8
So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd. Feb 14, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner. Feb 12, 2007