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Routes in Sunnyside Crags

Bad Day at Black Rocks T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cold September Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gotham City T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hot August Night T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Magellanic Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mercedes T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Meteor T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mister Freeze's Face T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mister Masters T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pit Bull T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shady Ladies T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Break T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Tarantula T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tie me Tightly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Van Allen Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Water Dog T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Whiplash T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Whipper T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,182 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The face just to the right of Shady Ladies sports a single bolt. The climb starts off heady and gets headier as you go, with some marginal and difficult to place protection guarding 5.10 moves in various places, including up top, where you have already suffered most of the route and may be 'done.' No less, it is a good route and is worth climbing. The Swain guide rated this "5.10?" I thought it would be about 5.11c going belly to the bolts, but we found a sequence going right after the bolt that was 5.10+.

Location

Just to the right of the corner that is Shady Ladies, there is a dark face with a single bolt perhaps 15 meters up. The climb is up on intermittent cracks, flakes and horizontals to this bolt, up and slightly right past it, then up the face on some left-leaning and left-facing features. It tops out on a slabby ledge where .75-1.5" nuts and cams are used for a final belay.
To retreat, climb down and over left to a station as for Shady Ladies

Protection

Rack: A trad rack from brass to 3" + a QD for a single bolt. Longer slings recommended.
While the lone bolt is at the crux of the route, it does not mean that the rest of the route is either easy or well protected. Getting to the bolt requires 5.10 climbing on cams in horizontals and small nuts behind small flakes. This is a serious route.

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