Mister Freeze's Face
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 130 ft|
|Page Views:||1,225 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 7, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThe face just to the right of Shady Ladies sports a single bolt. The climb starts off heady and gets headier as you go, with some marginal and difficult to place protection guarding 5.10 moves in various places, including up top, where you have already suffered most of the route and may be 'done.' No less, it is a good route and is worth climbing. The Swain guide rated this "5.10?" I thought it would be about 5.11c going belly to the bolts, but we found a sequence going right after the bolt that was 5.10+.
LocationJust to the right of the corner that is Shady Ladies, there is a dark face with a single bolt perhaps 15 meters up. The climb is up on intermittent cracks, flakes and horizontals to this bolt, up and slightly right past it, then up the face on some left-leaning and left-facing features. It tops out on a slabby ledge where .75-1.5" nuts and cams are used for a final belay.
To retreat, climb down and over left to a station as for Shady Ladies
ProtectionRack: A trad rack from brass to 3" + a QD for a single bolt. Longer slings recommended.
While the lone bolt is at the crux of the route, it does not mean that the rest of the route is either easy or well protected. Getting to the bolt requires 5.10 climbing on cams in horizontals and small nuts behind small flakes. This is a serious route.