Hot August Night
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft|
|FA:||Tony Bubb, Alex Thayer, 3/06|
|Page Views:||1,191 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Apr 2, 2006|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionThis route is just left of Cold September Corner and almost certainly has been top-roped before, at least in part. However, we climbed an entire line on lead, sharing only 2 meters of climbing with the nearby Cold September Corner.
A few meters left of that route there is a HUGE horizontal flake about 2.4 meters off of the ground; a man of average height should be able to just grab this while stretching.
Clasp this flake and pull onto it, then up into a big pocket, then up and left further to a bit of crack. This crack, about 3meters up, will take a 2-2.5" cam placement as your first gear. Jam this and pull to upright above the first overhang (bouldery 5.10). From there place more gear and continue straight up on intermittent crack systems to reach a blank face just below the main roof of Cold September Corner. Place gear and climb the thin moves to intercept the left side of the huge roof/slot (5.10, PG13) then climb out the left side of the roof (only 5.8) and continue up above on more cracks.
The crux of the route comes at a 3rd roof, which is small and pulls through on some semi-positive holds, albeit on small holds. Get under the roof to an amazing under-cling pocket and protect the next few moves with a .5 to .75 cam. Then reach high and right for a nickel-sized, diamond shaped hold and crimp ,then pull up and over the roof on a positive but strange pinch. Sequence will matter. (5.11, good gear). Finish directly upward to level with the Cold September anchors, then traverse to the right to reach them and lower off.