Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Carson, Steve Bullock '90
Page Views: 7,238 total · 37/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2002
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin .

You & This Route


175 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This route is a pretty fun route, but its otherwise cool nature is somewhat diminished by the flexing flakes that you use for holds, sometimes including the ones you are clipping from. The small and sustained nature of this climb gives it its grade, not the individual moves, which are probably only moderate 5.10.

Approach Panty Wall and walk to the far left, up a broad sloping gully to a very steep wall. At the left end of this wall is a flat face with a flake near the bottom. The crux, if I recall is about 1/2-way up the route.

Crimp and layback for 60 feet or so, passing 6 bolts to fixed rap anchors.

Protection

6 bolts, chains
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
The other crux for this route is probably deciding where best to position your belayer. If the belayer is up high in the gully near where the route begins, it's quite possible for them to get pulled off the stance, and be left hanging in space. Feb 21, 2004
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11a
just plop the belayer on the nice ledge at the base.

good route, the crux may have been .11a, but i wouldnt argue hard .10- this one just requires endurance.

good route, lots of fun. Oct 7, 2006
Matt McMurray
Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Matt McMurray   Castle Rock, CO
  5.11a
Probably my favorite route at the PW. Very fun moves (crimps, liebacks, etc.) that continue for the bottom 2/3 of the route. If you climb the grade, and end up going to the PW, this would be a must climb. =) Nov 30, 2006
Drederek
Olympia, WA
  5.11a
Drederek   Olympia, WA
  5.11a
Good steep climbing on adequate holds, another great route at RR. The crux was pretty low for me, perhaps something flexible went away. May 11, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.11a
Holds are good on a slightly overhanging wall. No flexi crimps or nothin! Sweet movement with some varied positions. Nov 5, 2011
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
This is a great route, I've done three times 2007, 2009 and 2014 and doesn't disappoint. Belay is flat and directly below the first bolt. Bolts are nicely placed together with maybe a bit of spice between 2 & 3. I have noted that the anchor is chains only (no hangers) and maybe even of smaller diameter link. I was comfortable enough from the stance to fiddle with getting a biner clipped but someone gripped or showing up with only lockers may not be so fortunate. Mar 14, 2014
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.11a
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.11a
we slung the boulder at the base of the climb for the belayer to anchor to in the event of a massive whipper.
Super dope climb that is shaded until later in the day. Mar 28, 2016
Alex S
 
Alex S  
 
Great route, but careful with the belay stance if you have a lighter belayer. I fell at the 4th clip and managed to just barely make contact with the slab at the base of the climb. The belayer was quite far below the first bolt so I think the extra rope stretch and longer distance between the 3rd and 4th bolt also contributed. Oct 25, 2018