Type: Trad, Boulder, 35 ft
FA: T. Swain, M. Parker, '94
Page Views: 2,841 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2002 with updates from Robert Hall
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

This is the right-most 'route' of the right-most buttress of Panty Wall.

Approach Panty Wall via the normal trail. Start up and right on the ramp at the wall's base, trying hard not to step on or be bumped off by one of the 3 dozen climbers standing on it on any given day...

Pass the standard up/down scramble, a 4th class gully splitting the wall, then pass a few small crack systems to reach a short curved crack and flake at the wall's right end. This is moderate in difficulty and memory dictates that it is a mere 5m high. Climb up and into the crack (crux), then to the top (5.5?).

Walk off right or to the left and scramble down the little gully.

Protection

A light standard rack, by some reports (I did not protect). Were it not for the possibility for quite a tumble from the ledge below this route, it would probably be considered a boulder problem by most people.t

Photos

10b4me  
This is a great Problem to muse. Takes a little time but is well worth it!! Aug 16, 2005
George Wilson
Las Vegas
 
George Wilson   Las Vegas
 
Almost no use in protecting this little climb...Bring medium nuts and a small cam if you're feeling hung over! A good second option for a crowded sport wall!! Oct 17, 2007
Mark  
Please consider changing the rating of this route from a bouldering problem to a trad route... a fall without pro on this route would not be good. I placed 6 pieces before getting to anchor. Guide books says 35 feet, 5.7. Jan 3, 2018