Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Donette & Todd Swain
Page Views: 5,870 total · 33/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Jun 15, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Those who have never climbed on desert varnish will find this climb a splendid introduction. The "glued on " nature of varnished holds over sandstone provides a unique climbing experience, of which the right hand flake near the first bolt is a fine example. Remember, pull down and not out and don't climb when the rock is wet. One would hate to contribute to the destruction of such an amazing climbing area.

Below the main wall, a flat ledge narrows and angles upwards the farther right you go. It eventually opens up again below a lower angled portion of the face which allows 4th class access to set up tope ropes above. Silk Panties starts midway up the narrow up-angling portion of the ledge and passes 5 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor. The 5.7 rating may be a bit generous.

Protection

6 draws

Photos

Daniel Harper
Menifee, CA
  5.7
Daniel Harper   Menifee, CA
  5.7
Speaking of the "glued on" nature of varnished holds, all of the hardware on this pitch now consists of FIXE glue-in bolts leading to a TWO bolt anchor with steel quick-links. Safe and fun if you can get there early enough to avoid the crowds. May 25, 2008
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
At some point the steel quick-links were stolen by someone. Judging by the (minor) wear on the anchor bolts, it has been gone for some time. Please do not toprope or lower directly from the bolts. On 1/19/10, the LVCLC placed mussy hooks (drop-in rappel hardware) on the anchor. Please use these to descend, and toprope from your own anchor material. Enjoy! Jan 19, 2010