Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Van Betten, Nick Nordblum 1987
Page Views: 12,702 total · 72/month
Shared By: John Hegyes on Aug 14, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

258 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


This single pitch trad line on the Panty Wall is to the left of the popular sport routes on the main face. The climb begins on the left side of the face, near where the pine tree used to be. It heads straight up the face to a small ceiling produced by the transition to the black varnished plates. Climb the left margin of an orange section to a thin right leaning crack to a two-bolt anchor on top.


Standard rack
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
this is 5.10 in Swain, but it's really not. .9+ is a more accurate rating- really good.

just bring a set of stoppers and sew it up, no cams needed. Oct 7, 2006
Makes a great TR solo. The rock is beautifully varnished. The route is very steep at the top. Apr 30, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
Route is overhanging at the top - great moves on the upper varnished section. Apr 18, 2010
NickinCO   colorado
Led this yesterday, I agree nuts only. The crux felt significantly harder than 5.9 to me, more like 10a/b. The rest of the route was definitely 5.9 though and protects well with wires everywhere. I couple people I was with top roped it afterwards and it seemed significantly easier for the shorter climber in our party. Apr 18, 2011
5.10a in my book! Ridiculously awesome, good stances to fish in nuts and oogle the sport climbers on the Panty Wall. Lots of nuts. I placed a .3 and .5 camalot pretty much for kicks and they were not ideal placements. Nuts. Nuts. Nuts.

Mantling off of the varnish onto the soft slab above seemed to be the hardest move! Brah! Dec 13, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Best route on the wall by far. Great pro, cool moves, if you miss the key toe hold it is 10a lockoff near the top, otherwise probably a little easier. Mar 11, 2013
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
This route really does take nuts well, but one thing to keep in mind before you set and jet is that if you have any doubts at all that you may fall at the crux, you should have at least one cam or oppositional nut in. My partner (who was quite competent and no rookie) zippered several pieces--up to his single cam placement--during a fall at the crux. I think the position of the belayer in relation to the wall doesn't help. Mar 26, 2013
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
An excellent climb with mostly passive pro and a clear and defined crux at the top. Just a couple notes:

I climbed this at the end of march this year and there was what appeared to be a fixed nut right at the crux. Getting to clip this took a lot of spice away from an excellent and aesthetic route. Hopefully someone takes the time to remove this piece so the route is clean again. I was with a big party on a busy Saturday, so I didn't even try to remove it, but it looked pretty buried. Not a local, so I have no idea how long it has been there.

The party before us was doing TR laps on it, and they did not extend the anchors over the edge. The rope drag looked horrendous, the lady was literally putting all of her body weight on the rope to pull in slack. Beyond drag, ropes over edges = bad. The anchors are pretty far back there, I brought a 30ft cord and still had to extend the power point with runners to get a good TR situation. Apr 12, 2013
Weston L
Classic, memorable, and engaging! Definitely been a minute since I had to stay at a stance fiddling nuts around...wait, what?

All jokes aside, this thing is outstanding and very engaging. More trad than rad, but still pretty effin cool. Agree with the Handren guide's 3/3 stars on it. Classic! Had this route been put up a few years later, I would almost expect the name to be Deez Nutz. Oct 2, 2013
Las Vegas, Nevada
Likeasummerthursday   Las Vegas, Nevada
+1 for small cams down low. This line was a chill TR but strenuous lead. The gear is great (yes, lots of nuts), but fiddling nuts into the wavy cracks behind the patina varnish is consuming. I whipped three times at the crux onto my last nut and think I could easily have zippered several pieces lower down if not for the two tiny cams I had as my first two pieces. The belay stance is back quite a bit from the 5.7ish first half of the route. Great falls. Great lead. Oct 17, 2014
Zach Parsons
Tacoma, WA
Zach Parsons   Tacoma, WA
I appreciated having small cams, especially after watching someone fall at the crux and zipper 4 nuts. Get in a few good directional pieces down low. Nov 7, 2017
brian burke
santa monica, ca
brian burke   santa monica, ca
i feel like leading this on wires only would be pretty scary. i zippered up 2 or 3 nut placements from the bottom up whipping right at the top of this. a couple solid cams kept me off the deck, but i was sure psyched on those cams. Nov 9, 2017
John Brown  
top is the crux. curse you! finally made it after a take. lovely route and a gem for first pullout. Nov 20, 2017
Very cool climb with great rests. Thought the crux was gonna be much harder after watching others. Really didn't like the gear for first half of route, but as the climbing gets harder the gear gets better. Definitely used a few poor cam placements here and there to hopefully prevent any zippering of nuts. Dec 25, 2017
Chad Elliott
Las Vegas
Chad Elliott   Las Vegas
Best one on the wall!! Jan 24, 2018
Pat Light
Charlottesville, VA
Pat Light   Charlottesville, VA
Quite good. If it's 5 10a, it's barely that, so it's a strong option for folks wanting to break into the grade on gear.

It'll certainly go on passive pro alone, and it's easy enough climbing and easy enough placements that you can feel comfortable practicing
your nutcraft. But you should definitely place a cam down low. Oct 7, 2018