Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 599 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

This is a route not described in the Bartlett or Vogel books. I am guessing at it's difficulty, but it was certainly insecure, and probably 5.11a - 11c. At Josh I have a hard time differentiating between security and difficulty because I judge difficulty by my perceived odds of falling off. Suffice it to say, I felt like I could have come off on this one, and the 10's had been feeling really secure.

On a distinctly white section of face near the center of the main south face, perhaps 8 meters right of "C Lunch" and 5 meters right of a lone bolt in an easy groove, there is a bolt on the face. This is up perhaps 2 meters from a horizontal break in the rock. Climb up to this and establish feet to clip a bolt, then climb the crux (insecure, & possibly height-dependant) to palm smear up above. Then climb easier rock (ground fall potential, but 5.5 or so) up to distinct dark features at a slight bulge and 2 more bolts. Top out and belay on a 2-bolt anchor.

Fun, puzzling, and Oh my god I can't believe I stuck to that!?!? I describe the grips as "palming an oversized basketball."

Protection

a few draws for clips. The first bolt is 6 meters up, the second 20 meters, but the climbing between is not hard.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Came in from the left past the first bolt which might have made it a grade easier, but the top section is no gimme. Probably solid 11. Secret is like the submitter suggested.... just palm the sucker like a big basketball and you'll probably hang on.... that is...if you have the energy! Jan 2, 2015
Sarah Barron
Glendora, CA
 
Sarah Barron   Glendora, CA
 
Sharp rock to clear the crux. Definitely height dependent to 1st 'good' hold at the bottom of the Y-crack. Not so hard slab to the top. Lots of palming. Bottom crux section ruined my finger tips for the rest of the day. Jan 9, 2018