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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 570 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a route not described in the Bartlett or Vogel books. I am guessing at it's difficulty, but it was certainly insecure, and probably 5.11a - 11c. At Josh I have a hard time differentiating between security and difficulty because I judge difficulty by my perceived odds of falling off. Suffice it to say, I felt like I could have come off on this one, and the 10's had been feeling really secure.

On a distinctly white section of face near the center of the main south face, perhaps 8 meters right of "C Lunch" and 5 meters right of a lone bolt in an easy groove, there is a bolt on the face. This is up perhaps 2 meters from a horizontal break in the rock. Climb up to this and establish feet to clip a bolt, then climb the crux (insecure, & possibly height-dependant) to palm smear up above. Then climb easier rock (ground fall potential, but 5.5 or so) up to distinct dark features at a slight bulge and 2 more bolts. Top out and belay on a 2-bolt anchor.

Fun, puzzling, and Oh my god I can't believe I stuck to that!?!? I describe the grips as "palming an oversized basketball."

Protection

a few draws for clips. The first bolt is 6 meters up, the second 20 meters, but the climbing between is not hard.

Photos

Sarah Barron  
 
Sharp rock to clear the crux. Definitely height dependent to 1st 'good' hold at the bottom of the Y-crack. Not so hard slab to the top. Lots of palming. Bottom crux section ruined my finger tips for the rest of the day. Jan 9, 2018
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
Came in from the left past the first bolt which might have made it a grade easier, but the top section is no gimme. Probably solid 11. Secret is like the submitter suggested.... just palm the sucker like a big basketball and you'll probably hang on.... that is...if you have the energy! Jan 2, 2015