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Shattered
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 34
votes
Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face
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Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feminine Itch Direct S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaden the Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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McFlurry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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McRib TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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McStain S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shattered S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Talisker's Choice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09514, -116.1586 |
| FA: | (TR) Kelby Burnham, Resa Ashbachar, FL: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, 2008; FA Left Variation (10+ TR) Matt Beebe and Jaime Camp, 11/22 |
| Page Views: | 4,189 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. Shorter people can easily stem off the boulder to reach the ledge. Hand traverse left to the 2nd bolt, then power over a bulge on crimps (Crux). The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10b/c slab move above the fourth bolt.
[Update] Looks like a key hold has broken off at the crux above the second bolt, so this section is harder now (5.11), and it may take a few more ascents to achieve consensus on the new rating.
If you're toproping, an easier variation is to hand traverse all the way left to the left end of the ledge, past the 2nd bolt, then power over the bulge on crimps, (10+, height dependent), FA (TR) Matt Beebe and Jaime Camp 11/22.
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