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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Kelby Burnham, Resa Ashbachar, FL: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, 2008
Page Views: 2,128 total, 20/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. (This maneuver will be more difficult the shorter you are) Hand traverse left, then power over a bulge (10c, height dependent) on knobs. The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10c slab move above the fourth bolt.

Protection

5 bolts, 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.

Photos

James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
4th bolt needs a wrench, loose. Didn't have a wrench or I would have tightened it. Nov 3, 2014
I couldn't pull the move past the bulge (crux). Small crimps and a high step right foot shut me down... ugh. Feb 3, 2014
RTM
  5.10b
RTM  
  5.10b
Fun climb. I found the crux (near the bottom) to be short and uneventful, but the upper part had some cool movement. I thought the route was easier than proposed, but that may be because the crux involved more pulling and less footwork (the latter of which I have none). Dec 22, 2009
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Starts with a reach to a high starting hold and then another reach to a ledge - there was no need to stem on this at the start unlike it's neighbor just to the right.

The crux past the 2nd bolt (pulling on sharp, grainy crimps, not knobs, over a bulge) is a bit unpleasant, but fortunately the climbing above is much better and the sequence past the 4th bolt is particularly engaging as well as easier than the lower crux. Two stars out of five. Dec 20, 2009