Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Kelby Burnham, Resa Ashbachar, FL: Bob Gaines and Tony Grice, 2008
Page Views: 2,436 total · 20/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Jan 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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Begin just left of the Fetus and make a step-across move/dyno to gain a ledge with the hands. (This maneuver will be more difficult the shorter you are) Hand traverse left, then power over a bulge (10c, height dependent) on knobs. The middle section has some enjoyable steep face climbing, with a 10c slab move above the fourth bolt.


5 bolts, 2-bolt belay/rap anchor.


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Starts with a reach to a high starting hold and then another reach to a ledge - there was no need to stem on this at the start unlike it's neighbor just to the right.

The crux past the 2nd bolt (pulling on sharp, grainy crimps, not knobs, over a bulge) is a bit unpleasant, but fortunately the climbing above is much better and the sequence past the 4th bolt is particularly engaging as well as easier than the lower crux. Two stars out of five. Dec 20, 2009
Fun climb. I found the crux (near the bottom) to be short and uneventful, but the upper part had some cool movement. I thought the route was easier than proposed, but that may be because the crux involved more pulling and less footwork (the latter of which I have none). Dec 22, 2009
I couldn't pull the move past the bulge (crux). Small crimps and a high step right foot shut me down... ugh. Feb 3, 2014
James Barnett
Bishop Ca.
James Barnett   Bishop Ca.
4th bolt needs a wrench, loose. Didn't have a wrench or I would have tightened it. Nov 3, 2014
Stone Adventures
Joshua Tree, CA
Stone Adventures   Joshua Tree, CA
Bolts are in very bad shape and hanging out of the wall. The first 2 bolts are in very poor rock. Seriously unsafe lead at present... Mar 1, 2018
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
Thanks for the report...I'll put it on the bolt replacement list. Mar 1, 2018
Bob Gaines
Bob Gaines  
The bad bolts have been replaced. The first bolt required a glue-in due to bad rock.

Thanks again to the American Safe Climbing Association for all the hardware they donate to those of us that replace bolts.

If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, check them out at safeclimbing.org Nov 29, 2018