Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon
Page Views: 959 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Steep friction moves up the face lead to a scooped out area and a high bolt below an obvious black intrusion. Move left after clipping the bolt, find the hidden edge and then make a long reach (easier if taller) to the black hold and power over the bulge. Higher, progressively easier moves up and left lead into the 2nd bolt of the regular route, which is followed to the top.


Between Banquet and Lunch and 10' right of the normal start.


3 bolts, 1 FP, a couple pieces 1-2.5", slings for tieoffs and a 2 bolt anchor/rap.


Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
"5.10c if you're tall, 5.impossible if you're short." May 26, 2010
Yes the route is directly below the right bolt and up through the dark spot then over to the bolt... Mar 12, 2012
Phil Esra
Phil Esra  
Crumbly rock. At least 10d at 5'6". Mar 11, 2013
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I believe it to be 5.10+.... Mar 11, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I took a different take on this and made a high initial step and stuck. It's probably 10+ alright, and a fun problem to mess around on especially if the day is cold since this is a nice, sunny area which is usually protected from the wind. Jan 2, 2015