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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Todd Gordon
Page Views: 855 total · 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Steep friction moves up the face lead to a scooped out area and a high bolt below an obvious black intrusion. Move left after clipping the bolt, find the hidden edge and then make a long reach (easier if taller) to the black hold and power over the bulge. Higher, progressively easier moves up and left lead into the 2nd bolt of the regular route, which is followed to the top.

Location

Between Banquet and Lunch and 10' right of the normal start.

Protection

3 bolts, 1 FP, a couple pieces 1-2.5", slings for tieoffs and a 2 bolt anchor/rap.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I took a different take on this and made a high initial step and stuck. It's probably 10+ alright, and a fun problem to mess around on especially if the day is cold since this is a nice, sunny area which is usually protected from the wind. Jan 2, 2015
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I believe it to be 5.10+.... Mar 11, 2013
Phil Esra
  5.10d
Phil Esra  
  5.10d
Crumbly rock. At least 10d at 5'6". Mar 11, 2013
Yes the route is directly below the right bolt and up through the dark spot then over to the bolt... Mar 12, 2012
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
"5.10c if you're tall, 5.impossible if you're short." May 26, 2010