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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Atherton, Cyndie Bransford & Todd Gordon, 1989
Page Views: 1,201 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Dec 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is toward the middle of the south face of Campfire Crag and is approached in any number of easy cracks to its base. You'll have a few moves to get to the first bolt so take along some medium cams. It's sandbagged moving from the second bolt to the top. Be that as it may, it's a fine route. There are rap anchors.


2 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Decent enough climbing that gets lots of sun too. The fixed anchor is a recent improvement by the FA party. Jan 9, 2004
Picnic (5.6) was a good approach to K-L-W and has rap anchors as well. I would have felt better having a bigger cam (Camalot 3.5-4) getting to the first bolt. For added excitement, give the first bolt a wiggle after you clip it. It looks new enough, but seemed to move a bit. Dec 3, 2004
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
The three of us today felt it closer to 5.9 A good route! A number two Camalot worked fine in the crack at the start. May 4, 2005
Richard Shore
Richard Shore  
The first bolt is in need of replacement. It appears to be a 1/4" or 5/16" buttonhead spinner. The second bolt, which protects the crux moves, is a nice new 3/8" Rawl. Moves felt very 5.9ish up top. Dec 25, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I agree that the moves past the second bolt are more like 5.9. Nice route though, but make sure your leader is comfortable at the grade. Jan 2, 2015

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