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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Atherton, Cyndie Bransford & Todd Gordon, 1989
Page Views: 1,201 total · 7/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Dec 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is toward the middle of the south face of Campfire Crag and is approached in any number of easy cracks to its base. You'll have a few moves to get to the first bolt so take along some medium cams. It's sandbagged moving from the second bolt to the top. Be that as it may, it's a fine route. There are rap anchors.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 2.5", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.8
C Miller   CA  
  5.8
Decent enough climbing that gets lots of sun too. The fixed anchor is a recent improvement by the FA party. Jan 9, 2004
Andy
  5.9
Andy  
  5.9
Picnic (5.6) was a good approach to K-L-W and has rap anchors as well. I would have felt better having a bigger cam (Camalot 3.5-4) getting to the first bolt. For added excitement, give the first bolt a wiggle after you clip it. It looks new enough, but seemed to move a bit. Dec 3, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
The three of us today felt it closer to 5.9 A good route! A number two Camalot worked fine in the crack at the start. May 4, 2005
Richard Shore
  5.9
Richard Shore  
  5.9
The first bolt is in need of replacement. It appears to be a 1/4" or 5/16" buttonhead spinner. The second bolt, which protects the crux moves, is a nice new 3/8" Rawl. Moves felt very 5.9ish up top. Dec 25, 2011
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I agree that the moves past the second bolt are more like 5.9. Nice route though, but make sure your leader is comfortable at the grade. Jan 2, 2015

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