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Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 833 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a so-so route. It's general direction is clear, but specifics not in a few places, with some variation in difficulty and quality depending upon the precise line taken. In all cases, at least minor runouts will be experienced. In my case, the climbing also seemed a tad hard for 5.6. Maybe 5.7 or 5.8.This is one of the longer routes on Campfire. It can be done in a pitch or in two, depending on how much pro & how many slings you use- determining in how much drag you end up with.

Start more or less in the center of the S face, in a well defined crack system. Climb up a few moves to get established and get in some pro, climbing up for a bit before committing to a junky crack or a good face left of it (without a crack) Vogel's book implies a defined line, and while this is marked as a crack, it appears to go left top the face _variation, which was seeming nicer, though unprotected (5.5? S/VS). We chose that over the less interesting crack. After and additional 70' of climbing, you pop up onto a ledge and see a finishing crack, up into this and over the top on larger cams (3" or so?) gets you to the top of the crag.

Descending is either an exposed and insecure scramble down a long sloping ramp to the East, or a long walk back around from the N or W side. Worth the effort to climb it? YES. Worth the effort required to get back down? MAYBE.

Protection

A standard rack, with some considerable runouts.

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shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
  5.8
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
  5.8
Lunch begins right in the steep deep crack between the face of I Love my Marine direct and Feminine Itch direct face. 1 pitch is enough to get you to the anchors of either. You can Top Rope this best from the anchors above ILMM. Good climb on good rock probably a 5.8. Pitch 2 goes up to the summit behind Feminine itch on crack next to Carnitas if you want. Jun 25, 2011
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Is this the pocketed crack just to the right of ILMM direct?
I continued just to the right of ILMM near the upper slab through a blank runnel section. No pro there. Oct 26, 2015

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