Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,662 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 5, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures Details


This is a so-so route. It's general direction is clear, but specifics not in a few places, with some variation in difficulty and quality depending upon the precise line taken. In all cases, at least minor runouts will be experienced. In my case, the climbing also seemed a tad hard for 5.6. Maybe 5.7 or 5.8.This is one of the longer routes on Campfire. It can be done in a pitch or in two, depending on how much pro & how many slings you use- determining in how much drag you end up with.

Start more or less in the center of the S face, in a well defined crack system. Climb up a few moves to get established and get in some pro, climbing up for a bit before committing to a junky crack or a good face left of it (without a crack) Vogel's book implies a defined line, and while this is marked as a crack, it appears to go left top the face _variation, which was seeming nicer, though unprotected (5.5? S/VS). We chose that over the less interesting crack. After and additional 70' of climbing, you pop up onto a ledge and see a finishing crack, up into this and over the top on larger cams (3" or so?) gets you to the top of the crag.

Descending is either an exposed and insecure scramble down a long sloping ramp to the East, or a long walk back around from the N or W side. Worth the effort to climb it? YES. Worth the effort required to get back down? MAYBE.


A standard rack, with some considerable runouts.


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