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Lunch
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 1.4 from 15
votes
Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face
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Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feminine Itch Direct S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Love my Marine S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Leaden the Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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McFlurry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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McRib TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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McStain S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Shattered S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Talisker's Choice T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 34.09514, -116.1586 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,958 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 5, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a so-so route. It's general direction is clear, but specifics not in a few places, with some variation in difficulty and quality depending upon the precise line taken. In all cases, at least minor runouts will be experienced. In my case, the climbing also seemed a tad hard for 5.6. Maybe 5.7 or 5.8.
This is one of the longer routes on Campfire. It can be done in a pitch or in two, depending on how much pro & how many slings you use- determining in how much drag you end up with.
Start more or less in the center of the S face, in a well defined crack system. Climb up a few moves to get established and get in some pro, climbing up for a bit before committing to a junky crack or a good face left of it (without a crack) Vogel's book implies a defined line, and while this is marked as a crack, it appears to go left top the face _variation, which was seeming nicer, though unprotected (5.5? S/VS). We chose that over the less interesting crack. After and additional 70' of climbing, you pop up onto a ledge and see a finishing crack, up into this and over the top on larger cams (3" or so?) gets you to the top of the crag.
Descending is either an exposed and insecure scramble down a long sloping ramp to the East, or a long walk back around from the N or W side. Worth the effort to climb it? YES. Worth the effort required to get back down? MAYBE.
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