Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Campfire Crag - South Face

Banquet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Carnitas Leftovers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Feast T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Feminine Itch S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fetus, The S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fool's Ruby T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Heart Slab T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I Love my Marine S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
I Love my Marine, Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Impatience (aka A Diamond, A Pony, and a Ferrari ) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kundalini-Linguini-Weenie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Leaden the Rock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lunch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
McAloo Tikki TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
McChoss TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
McStain S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natty Tree Goes Rogue T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Picnic T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shattered S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sokolove S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Talisker T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bill Todd and others, 10/86
Page Views: 1,000 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Oct 29, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Scramble up the gully left of and behind campsite 42. Towards the top, on the main south face of Campfire Crag, this route angles up and left past two bolts to the right end of a horizontal, then up past three bolts from there. Gear belay and walk/scramle off.

Protection

Five bolts (all 3/8"), gear to 2.5" for an anchor.

Photos

shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
 
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
 
This route has 5 bolts. It does not run straight up the trough like it shows in the Vogel guide. The new Miramontes guide displays it acurately. Also the anchors have been chopped. It is possible to build an anchor under the bolder on top or sling it with a short rope or long webbing. The 5.8 rating goes if done this way. Downclimb climbers left towards the chimney. Aug 20, 2011
Justin Slagle
Palm Desert, CA
 
Justin Slagle   Palm Desert, CA
 
Ok climb, if you're shorter put a piece in the horizontal, it's kinda a move to the first bolt for the vertically challenged and could be a nasty fall if you don't, up two more bolts and then way left to the water trough for the next bolt, climbs good going straight up as well, just not protected. Feb 12, 2009
Woody Stark
  5.6
Woody Stark  
  5.6
This route's not worth the scramble to its base. How it ever got a 5.8 rating is beyond me. Apr 11, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
AS of 4/9/2005 this route has only two bolts/hangers on it. And frankly, they are all that are needed on this rather easy route. Apr 10, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
whomever replaced the hangers thank you...........I think I'll go do it again..................... Jan 1, 2005
The bolts on this were replaced in Dec 2004. All the bolts were in place, but only the fourth had a hanger. The fifth is shaply off to the left, so you could miss it, but I don't see how you missed the first one. It now has five new 3/8" bolts, but no fixed anchor. Dec 29, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
5.6
Short way above the start is a horizontal crack that you can get some pro in. Not much of a help though. The one remaining bolt is a quarter inch job, but it's in good. The rock is solid and the climbing sound. For the novice I do not recommend it as a fall above UNO bolt is a "Deck delight" (no Thompsons Water Seal included), due to the runout. No anchors to rap or bring a partner up on. An obvious area (When you top out) can take some cams for an anchor. We did not find an easy walkoff (It also was dark yesterday when we finished. Light helps!!!) So I lowered Big D and took a long hike ending up saying "hi" to a bunch of screaming mimi's in the Group camping area on the north side of the rock (Whoops!). Overall it was a pretty fun, short one. Would make a good solo! Oct 2, 2003

More About Heart Slab

Printer-Friendly Guide