Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bret Ruckman and Marco Cornacchione
Page Views: 8,736 total · 35/month
Shared By: Max Schon on Oct 31, 2003 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a great route! As Cornachionne (sp?) says in his guide, "every pitch has character and excitement." The route is located on the west side of the Bridgers and summits the Bridger Jack Butte. As far as I remember, all of the pitches were less then 100'.

P1: Great hands splitter that starts off with 2.5 Friends and goes to #2 Camalots.

P2: Contrary to Cornachionne's description of this pitch, it is not dangerous or "r" rated. I can't remember exactly, but there might not be a fixed anchor at this belay and available pro might be less then perfect. Can't remember exactly, though. The crux is a bouldery sequence right off the belay, protected by good gear (finger piece). If you did blow this sequence, you would end up sitting on your belayer's head. Some people might find the low angle face climbing afterwards a little spicey, but there is definitely an easy way (and a hard way). My suggestion is to stay on the right side and not get lured out onto the face.

P3: This is where the fun really begins. Tunnel behind the pillar till you reach a gaping offwidth crack. Stem up until you can stand on the pillar and you are staring at the crack. Right here is a good place to use the #4 Camalot, if you brought it. I didn't have one, and had to push a #3.5 Camalot to a tipped out position to provide a little mental security for a slightly akward lunge into the offwidth. After one or two moves, you get good hands, though. The rest of this pitch is an awesome stembox with bomber hands in the corner.

P4: This is where Cornachionne's guide is seriously wrong, in my humble opinion. The book mentions something about sustained tight hands. Yes, there are some overhanging slightly sandy tight hands (#2 Friends), but they don't last long. After pulling the small bulge of tight hands, it quickly gets into cups, fists, and an occasional offwidth move. Pumpy pitch, but not sustained on the tight hands.

P5: A short jaunt up the last fifty feet or so of choss to the the top.

Rappel down to the notch on King of Pain, and then the same rappel.

Protection Suggest change

A standard desert rack, meaning doubles up to a #3 Camalot, and one #4 Camalot. Seasoned hard desert climbers might not need the #4 Cam.