Avg: 3.4 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bret Ruckman and Marco Cornacchione|
|Page Views:||7,211 total · 35/month|
|Shared By:||Max Schon on Oct 31, 2003 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas open September 1, 2020
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020- September 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: firstname.lastname@example.org
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1: Great hands splitter that starts off with 2.5 Friends and goes to #2 Camalots.
P2: Contrary to Cornachionne's description of this pitch, it is not dangerous or "r" rated. I can't remember exactly, but there might not be a fixed anchor at this belay and available pro might be less then perfect. Can't remember exactly, though. The crux is a bouldery sequence right off the belay, protected by good gear (finger piece). If you did blow this sequence, you would end up sitting on your belayer's head. Some people might find the low angle face climbing afterwards a little spicey, but there is definitely an easy way (and a hard way). My suggestion is to stay on the right side and not get lured out onto the face.
P3: This is where the fun really begins. Tunnel behind the pillar till you reach a gaping offwidth crack. Stem up until you can stand on the pillar and you are staring at the crack. Right here is a good place to use the #4 Camalot, if you brought it. I didn't have one, and had to push a #3.5 Camalot to a tipped out position to provide a little mental security for a slightly akward lunge into the offwidth. After one or two moves, you get good hands, though. The rest of this pitch is an awesome stembox with bomber hands in the corner.
P4: This is where Cornachionne's guide is seriously wrong, in my humble opinion. The book mentions something about sustained tight hands. Yes, there are some overhanging slightly sandy tight hands (#2 Friends), but they don't last long. After pulling the small bulge of tight hands, it quickly gets into cups, fists, and an occasional offwidth move. Pumpy pitch, but not sustained on the tight hands.
P5: A short jaunt up the last fifty feet or so of choss to the the top.
Rappel down to the notch on King of Pain, and then the same rappel.