Avg: 3.4 from 56 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Bret Ruckman and Marco Cornacchione|
|Page Views:||7,797 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Max Schon on Oct 31, 2003 · Updates|
|Admins:||slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
2021 Raptor Avoidance Areas - LIFTED as of September 1st 2021
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls, and often return to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that climbers and hikers avoid nest areas during critical nesting periods, typically in early March through late August. Avoiding climbing and hiking in the vicinity of the nests and keeping a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the BLM asks the public to avoid climbing or hiking in areas with high potential or historically known to have bird nesting activity. The impacted areas are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. This list serves only as a guide and does not indicate every avoidance area or their many names. For access to a map of raptor avoidance area or any questions about raptors and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Thomas Plank or Jason Byrd with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500.
Full press release: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
P1: Great hands splitter that starts off with 2.5 Friends and goes to #2 Camalots.
P2: Contrary to Cornachionne's description of this pitch, it is not dangerous or "r" rated. I can't remember exactly, but there might not be a fixed anchor at this belay and available pro might be less then perfect. Can't remember exactly, though. The crux is a bouldery sequence right off the belay, protected by good gear (finger piece). If you did blow this sequence, you would end up sitting on your belayer's head. Some people might find the low angle face climbing afterwards a little spicey, but there is definitely an easy way (and a hard way). My suggestion is to stay on the right side and not get lured out onto the face.
P3: This is where the fun really begins. Tunnel behind the pillar till you reach a gaping offwidth crack. Stem up until you can stand on the pillar and you are staring at the crack. Right here is a good place to use the #4 Camalot, if you brought it. I didn't have one, and had to push a #3.5 Camalot to a tipped out position to provide a little mental security for a slightly akward lunge into the offwidth. After one or two moves, you get good hands, though. The rest of this pitch is an awesome stembox with bomber hands in the corner.
P4: This is where Cornachionne's guide is seriously wrong, in my humble opinion. The book mentions something about sustained tight hands. Yes, there are some overhanging slightly sandy tight hands (#2 Friends), but they don't last long. After pulling the small bulge of tight hands, it quickly gets into cups, fists, and an occasional offwidth move. Pumpy pitch, but not sustained on the tight hands.
P5: A short jaunt up the last fifty feet or so of choss to the the top.
Rappel down to the notch on King of Pain, and then the same rappel.