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Out From the Shadows
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
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Routes in Bridger Jack Butte
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Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hydrophobic Coyote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jack In The Box T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Jack The Ripper T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Powders of Persuasion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Wild Flower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jason Nelson, Lisa Nelson, Mary Harlan |
| Page Views: | 1,253 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Nelson 1 on Mar 31, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities!
Details
Limited toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
2023 Raptor Avoidance Areas- The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, and Reservoir Wall. See map in photos section.
Each spring raptors return to the Indian Creek area for nesting. Eagles, falcons, hawks, and other migratory birds use shallow depressions on ledges, cliffs and rock walls to build nests, often returning to the same site year after year to raise their young. The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) requests that visitors and recreationists avoid these areas during critical nesting periods which typically start in early March and last through late August. Avoiding recreational activity in the vicinity of the nest sites along and maintaining a safe viewing distance will help ensure survival of young birds.
Beginning March 1, the public is asked to avoid climbing in areas that are historically known to have raptor nesting activity or have a high potential for nesting. Areas that have potential nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as: The Wall, Far Side, The Meat Walls, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall and Critic’s Choice. While this list serves as a guide, it does not indicate every avoidance area or encompass all known names of the affected climbing areas. Please refer to the provided “Raptor Protection Map” to identify avoidance areas. The BLM is coordinating these raptor protection efforts with the Utah School and Institutional Trust Lands Administration, who is the administrator of the climbing areas known as Disappointment Cliffs and portions of the Second Meat Wall climbing area. The avoidance areas only cover a portion of Disappointment Cliffs, see the map for additional details.
In March, BLM biologists will begin the annual surveys of raptor activity to verify which historic nest sites are being used. Typically, by late April or early May, biologists can identify the nesting areas the raptors have selected. At that time the areas without active nests will be cleared for recreational use. The BLM requests that climbers, campers, and hikers completely avoid areas with active nests until the young birds have fledged, which is usually by late summer. Biologists will monitor nesting activity throughout the season and keep the recreation community informed of potential changes. Avoidance area notices and maps will be posted throughout the Indian Creek Corridor during the recreation season.
While falcons and eagles are not overly common sights in southeastern Utah, they are present throughout the area and keen-eyed observers are sometimes rewarded with their aerial acrobatics. Visitors can watch adult birds hunt or observe the antics of young raptors perfecting their flying techniques. These species in Utah continue to recover from low population levels, thanks in part to cooperation from the public, climbing communities and governmental partners. The BLM would like to remind the public there are private land holdings throughout the Indian Creek Corridor. Please respect private landowners’ boundaries and signage.
For questions about this avoidance areas, raptors, and migratory bird habitat in the Monticello area, please contact Rachel Wootton with the BLM Monticello Field Office at 435-587-1500. Persons who use a telecommunications device for the deaf (TTY) may call 711 to leave a message or question. The TTY Relay System is available 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Replies are provided during normal business hours.
blm.gov/announcement/blm-an…
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
Route
This is a fun varied adventure with great climbing on pitches two and three. The other pitches are fun too, but those ones really stand out. There may be some loose stuff on occasion, but we put in a solid effort to get rid of all we could. You can easily rap the route with one 70m rope. All of the belays are bolted. If you are short on time, cragging on the second pitches of Out from the Shadows and Sucker Punch is a worthwhile endeavor.
History
I started working on this climb with Mary Harlan. We climbed and cleaned the first two pitches of this route and Sucker Punch over two days. Several other missions by myself and various partners added the remaining hardware. A year to two later, my wife Lisa agreed to do the route with me. Our first attempt ended in failure when we couldnt locate a rumored trail on the backside of the Bridgers. The following day, we rode our bikes from the cattle guard to avoid bouncing around on the Bridger Jack road in a vehicle, did the normal approach from the campground and climbed the route.
I named the route Out From the Shadows because the route is in the shade for most of the day, and more importantly, it was Lisas first big adventure with me after a difficult fight with late-stage lyme disease for the past two years. Getting up this route for her is a big step on her road to recovery. She went from being a strong athlete to barely being able to walk a mile. Welcome back to the team Lisa!
Pitch 1
Start up a little 3rd class buttress with choss strewn ledges to an easy slab that avoids some blocks. The climbing begins by heading up an arete to a right facing corner. A bolt out right leads you onto the face and onto the ledge above. Another bolt protects a choosy ramp that leads to the bolted anchor. The climbing on this pitch is only about 5.7 or 5.8 but requires a little care as there is some loose rock. Gear: Take the small cams up to a .5, then either a 2,3 or 4, and two quick draws for the bolts.
Pitch 2
Take the widening finger crack to the right of the belay to a ledge (the splitter crack to the left is Sucker Punch). Layback up initial body length finger crack to where it widens to #1 Camalots. The corner crack is mostly #1s but occasionally opens enough to fit #2s. Higher, the crack thins back to fingers before you step right to the belay. Gear:Small cams up to #2 Camalots and 1 #3 can be placed right before the anchor. 5.11
Pitch 3
Climb delicately around the wedged piano block. Face holds and three bolts help you to avoid it. Climb the hand crack to the first bulge which widens to #4 Camalots, gain a constricted rest above it, and make your way out the final section of roof. Look for some feet on the left, then push around the corner and into the off-width. The Blue Big Bro can be placed here. Above it narrows to a tipped out #6 Camalot and finally to a ramp and ledge. Its possible to belay here. Otherwise continue up the corner. Two more #4 Camalots can be placed at the top of the crack, then move right to an anchor (2 drilled pins). 5.11
Pitch 4
Step right behind the top of a pillar and climb the handcrack that turns to fingers and a short section of off-width before reaching a small ledge. Climb through the final overhang crux (5.10) and belay on the edge above. The anchor I used took a #1, #2, and #3 Camalot.
Pitch 5
Walk around to the left about 100 to beneath a short splitter finger crack. Either climb the finger crack, or easier, just step left and climb a left facing corner to a ledge, then climb the right facing corner through a quick bulge and the ramp above. A set of bolts will be where the rock meets the dirt. Gear: not much is needed. A #1 Camalot protects the bulge. 5.8
Descent: Rap the route. It might be helpful to kick and swing to get into the anchors at the top of pitch 2.
This is a fun varied adventure with great climbing on pitches two and three. The other pitches are fun too, but those ones really stand out. There may be some loose stuff on occasion, but we put in a solid effort to get rid of all we could. You can easily rap the route with one 70m rope. All of the belays are bolted. If you are short on time, cragging on the second pitches of Out from the Shadows and Sucker Punch is a worthwhile endeavor.
History
I started working on this climb with Mary Harlan. We climbed and cleaned the first two pitches of this route and Sucker Punch over two days. Several other missions by myself and various partners added the remaining hardware. A year to two later, my wife Lisa agreed to do the route with me. Our first attempt ended in failure when we couldnt locate a rumored trail on the backside of the Bridgers. The following day, we rode our bikes from the cattle guard to avoid bouncing around on the Bridger Jack road in a vehicle, did the normal approach from the campground and climbed the route.
I named the route Out From the Shadows because the route is in the shade for most of the day, and more importantly, it was Lisas first big adventure with me after a difficult fight with late-stage lyme disease for the past two years. Getting up this route for her is a big step on her road to recovery. She went from being a strong athlete to barely being able to walk a mile. Welcome back to the team Lisa!
Pitch 1
Start up a little 3rd class buttress with choss strewn ledges to an easy slab that avoids some blocks. The climbing begins by heading up an arete to a right facing corner. A bolt out right leads you onto the face and onto the ledge above. Another bolt protects a choosy ramp that leads to the bolted anchor. The climbing on this pitch is only about 5.7 or 5.8 but requires a little care as there is some loose rock. Gear: Take the small cams up to a .5, then either a 2,3 or 4, and two quick draws for the bolts.
Pitch 2
Take the widening finger crack to the right of the belay to a ledge (the splitter crack to the left is Sucker Punch). Layback up initial body length finger crack to where it widens to #1 Camalots. The corner crack is mostly #1s but occasionally opens enough to fit #2s. Higher, the crack thins back to fingers before you step right to the belay. Gear:Small cams up to #2 Camalots and 1 #3 can be placed right before the anchor. 5.11
Pitch 3
Climb delicately around the wedged piano block. Face holds and three bolts help you to avoid it. Climb the hand crack to the first bulge which widens to #4 Camalots, gain a constricted rest above it, and make your way out the final section of roof. Look for some feet on the left, then push around the corner and into the off-width. The Blue Big Bro can be placed here. Above it narrows to a tipped out #6 Camalot and finally to a ramp and ledge. Its possible to belay here. Otherwise continue up the corner. Two more #4 Camalots can be placed at the top of the crack, then move right to an anchor (2 drilled pins). 5.11
Pitch 4
Step right behind the top of a pillar and climb the handcrack that turns to fingers and a short section of off-width before reaching a small ledge. Climb through the final overhang crux (5.10) and belay on the edge above. The anchor I used took a #1, #2, and #3 Camalot.
Pitch 5
Walk around to the left about 100 to beneath a short splitter finger crack. Either climb the finger crack, or easier, just step left and climb a left facing corner to a ledge, then climb the right facing corner through a quick bulge and the ramp above. A set of bolts will be where the rock meets the dirt. Gear: not much is needed. A #1 Camalot protects the bulge. 5.8
Descent: Rap the route. It might be helpful to kick and swing to get into the anchors at the top of pitch 2.
Location
This route is located on the NW facing corner of the Bridger Jack Butte.
Hike up the Bridger Jack Trail from the campground. Go right along the base of the wall until you wrap around to the west face of the Bridger Jack Butte. Just as the trail begins to descend there will be a little alcove on the left. This is the staging area. The route begins just around the corner to the right.
Hike up the Bridger Jack Trail from the campground. Go right along the base of the wall until you wrap around to the west face of the Bridger Jack Butte. Just as the trail begins to descend there will be a little alcove on the left. This is the staging area. The route begins just around the corner to the right.
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