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Powders of Persuasion [Suggest Change]
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 25
votes
Routes in The Bridger Jacks
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Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beer n' Cookies V0 4 |
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East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hoop Dancer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Kokanee Corner, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Learning to Crawl T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Powders of Persuasion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rim Shot T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sandy Vag V1 5 |
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Sparkling Touch T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wild Flower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Taras Skibicky and Anne Leibold |
| Page Views: | 3,852 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Max Schon on Sep 30, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
This is the huge dihedral on the Bridger Jack butte. Pitch 1: easy 5.9 climbing, maybe 80'. Pitch 2: an 80' offwidth pitch with some sand. The gear is solid, though. A detached pillar provides some great stemming. A 5.10+ slot move to an exciting reach finishes the pitch. Pitch 3: The business. A 180' pumper. The pitch starts off with some 3.5 camalot size and goes to mostly hands (1 camalot and 2.5 friend). Although no single move on the pitch is very hard, it is unrelenting and offers no feet except for the crack. There is no fixed anchor at the top of this pitch, but some small gear like green aliens will do the trick. Pitch 4: Several options are here. We went to the left, which was mostly chossy low angle face climbing typical of any route that tops out on the Bridger Jack.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
Protection [Suggest Change]
Some of everything. The third pitch does not have a fixed anchor. Some small stuff, like .3 camalots will do the trick.
Boulder
West Copper, Co
The route was just going into the shade when we did it (early afternoon). If you want sun, get up early.
As of 11-09, there was a fixed anchor on the big ledge after P3 (the long corner pitch). There's a new bolt and a fixed stopper, but they're a long ways back (around to the right). I had a 70m rope and was able to reach the anchor, but it looked like a 60m might not have made it.
As for the raps, we made it down with a single 70m. One easy rap to the notch, and then one very short rap (climber's left) to another anchor (I think you could rap all the way from the top of the butte to here, combining the first two raps). One long rap (70m required probably?), then one more to the ground.
Hope this beta helps,
-Scott Nov 6, 2009
Boulder, CO
Phoenix
Brevard, NC