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Powders of Persuasion
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.9 from 33
votes
Routes in The Bridger Jacks
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Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Beer n' Cookies V0 4 |
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East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hoop Dancer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X |
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Hydrophobic coyote T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Kokanee Corner, The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Learning to Crawl T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Powders of Persuasion T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sandy Vag V1 5 |
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Sparkling Touch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Wild Flower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 350 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Taras Skibicky and Anne Leibold |
| Page Views: | 4,565 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Max Schon on Sep 30, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect
Details
No toilet/port a potty facilities: Have poop plan! Visit: facebook.com/friendsofindia…
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
saltlakeclimbers.org/news/2…
Seasonal Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas in effect March 1, 2020 for full details visit: blm.gov/press-release/blm-a…
Beginning March 1-late July, the public will be asked to avoid climbing or hiking in areas where birds are known to nest. The climbing areas that are historically known to have nesting activity are referred to in many climbing guidebooks as:
June 11, 2020 avoidance update:
The Wall, Reservoir Wall, Cat Wall, and the multiple Meat Walls.
BLM biologists will continue monitoring efforts throughout the 2020 season, and the BLM will notify the public once young birds have fledged. Trailhead notices and maps will be updated when the avoidance areas are lifted. The BLM expects the avoidance areas to be lifted prior to the beginning of the fall climbing season.
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
Contact Jason Byrd at the BLM with questions: jbyrd@blm.gov
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
This is the huge dihedral on the Bridger Jack butte. Pitch 1: easy 5.9 climbing, maybe 80'. Pitch 2: an 80' offwidth pitch with some sand. The gear is solid, though. A detached pillar provides some great stemming. A 5.10+ slot move to an exciting reach finishes the pitch. Pitch 3: The business. A 180' pumper. The pitch starts off with some 3.5 camalot size and goes to mostly hands (1 camalot and 2.5 friend). Although no single move on the pitch is very hard, it is unrelenting and offers no feet except for the crack. There is no fixed anchor at the top of this pitch, but some small gear like green aliens will do the trick. Pitch 4: Several options are here. We went to the left, which was mostly chossy low angle face climbing typical of any route that tops out on the Bridger Jack.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
Rap: One single rope rap off the top to the notch between the Bridger Jack and the King of Pain. A double rope rap about half way down the King of Pain to a solid fixed anchor. BE CAREFUL when pulling your rope from this rap. Many a party has gotten their ropes stuck. Another rap to the ground.
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