Type: Trad, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Pete Gallagher, Russell Johnson, 1985
Page Views: 228 total · 9/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Apr 30, 2017
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route starts out encouragingly enough in an attractive, varnished corner that entices one upward through deteriorating rock until the leader is left reliant on marginal gear, talking to himself, and 100% clear on the significance of the route name.

P1. *** Well worth doing. Reachy shenanigans off the ground in the vicinity of a drilled pin gain access to the varnished corner. Mostly hands and big hands, ~150', drilled anchor w/webbing etc.

P2. * Worth doing really only if you're going to summit. Hard bombay squeeze (new #5 Camalot) in nice varnish leads to crumbling handsiness, wideness, etc. to a similar fixed anchor atop a pillar, ~100'. Consider strongly the virtue of rappelling from this point.

P3. [bomb icon] Ignoring the filthy corner to the left, step down and around the corner you just came up, heading for a drilled pin on the shoulder of the right-facing corner. Make your way to the top through wildly variable rock and protection, and don't even think about falling on the wiggly angle. Maybe 120'.

Hike to the summit and rappel Aging Salesman.

Location

Varnished corner with drilled angle about 15' up, right of Wild Flower and left of the Aging Salesman.

Protection

Mostly hands and big hands, but cover the bases.

Photos

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