Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 3.4 from 50
> Moab Area
> Indian Creek
> Bridger Jacks
Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas
Please be aware of climbing routes that have nesting raptors. This News Release requests climbers' cooperation
in protecting eagles, peregrine falcons,
and other migratory birds
who use the Indian Creek area to raise their young. Between March 1st and August 31st
each year, the BLM asks climbers to avoid climbing these walls
until they have been cleared by agency biologists: The Wall, Far Side, Second Meat Wall, Disappointment Cliff, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall,
and Reservoir Wall
. Two of these walls are on partially or wholly on lands managed by SITLA, who is working cooperatively with BLM to protect raptors. The BLM and SITLA will survey walls and generally in May can release any routes that don't have active nests. The walls with active nests should be avoided until the young have fledged. Eagles and falcons mate for life and return to the same nest sites year after year to raise their young, your cooperation is vital to their survival.
The revised map for Raptor Avoidance:
(The map previously posted was requested by Jason Byrd to be deleted due to errors.)
The news release: blm.gov/press-release/annou…
Signs will also be posted at the main trailheads.
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
This is a great route! As Cornachionne (sp?) says in his guide, "every pitch has character and excitement." The route is located on the west side of the Bridgers and summits the Bridger Jack Butte. As far as I remember, all of the pitches were less then 100'.
P1: Great hands splitter that starts off with 2.5 Friends and goes to #2 Camalots.
P2: Contrary to Cornachionne's description of this pitch, it is not dangerous or "r" rated. I can't remember exactly, but there might not be a fixed anchor at this belay and available pro might be less then perfect. Can't remember exactly, though. The crux is a bouldery sequence right off the belay, protected by good gear (finger piece). If you did blow this sequence, you would end up sitting on your belayer's head. Some people might find the low angle face climbing afterwards a little spicey, but there is definitely an easy way (and a hard way). My suggestion is to stay on the right side and not get lured out onto the face.
P3: This is where the fun really begins. Tunnel behind the pillar till you reach a gaping offwidth crack. Stem up until you can stand on the pillar and you are staring at the crack. Right here is a good place to use the #4 Camalot, if you brought it. I didn't have one, and had to push a #3.5 Camalot to a tipped out position to provide a little mental security for a slightly akward lunge into the offwidth. After one or two moves, you get good hands, though. The rest of this pitch is an awesome stembox with bomber hands in the corner.
P4: This is where Cornachionne's guide is seriously wrong, in my humble opinion. The book mentions something about sustained tight hands. Yes, there are some overhanging slightly sandy tight hands (#2 Friends), but they don't last long. After pulling the small bulge of tight hands, it quickly gets into cups, fists, and an occasional offwidth move. Pumpy pitch, but not sustained on the tight hands.
P5: A short jaunt up the last fifty feet or so of choss to the the top.
Rappel down to the notch on King of Pain, and then the same rappel.
A standard desert rack, meaning doubles up to a #3 Camalot, and one #4 Camalot. Seasoned hard desert climbers might not need the #4 Cam.
Tom on the cool "box" pitch
Looking up the 3rd pitch stembox. Amazingly fun feature to climb.
The step across into the offwidth
The top section of the 4th pitch. The varied size of this pitch made it strenuous. The belay consists of 1 old star drive and plenty of chossy cracks to put cams in.
Ah...Finally the hand jam I was looking for. 3rd pitch.
Making the move into the OW section. It's a long way down!!!
B-Fo sinking tight hands on the first pitch.
Looking up at the 3rd pitch stembox and 4th pitch crux corner.
Dan Wright set to cruise mode.