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Routes in The Bridger Jacks

Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beer n' Cookies V0 4
East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hoop Dancer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Kokanee Corner , The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Learning to Crawl T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Powders of Persuasion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sandy Vag V1 5
Sparkling Touch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wild Flower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 275 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster + partner c.1983
Page Views: 5,284 total, 37/month
Shared By: Rob Dillon on Apr 13, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Wild Flower represents both the first ascent of the Bridger Jack Butte and its easiest route. Besides this, it's the rap line. The route follows flakes and corners for 2 pitches to the notch between the King of Pain and the main butte, and then takes the left of two obvious wide cracks to the top of the Wingate. The first two pitches provide enjoyable sections of climbing between ledges. The third provides excellent opportunities for character building.

Pitch 1: Begins just left of the high point of the dirt/talus in a L-facing ramp with a 4" crack-flake on it. A bolt (not original) is evident perhaps 30' up. Follow the line of least resistance to fixed anchors at 100'. IF YOU FALL OFF THIS PITCH AT THE WRONG PLACE YOU CAN GET VERY FUCKED UP.

Pitch 2: Fun movement out from under a boulder, past another non-FA bolt, to more enjoyable (and more sustained) corners and flakes. Note the rope grooves at the top of the pitch. They look like they could just grab right on to a knotted rope, don't they? A 5" piece comes in handy. 120', maybe.

Pitch 3: Yes, that. Easy chimney to a squeezer, 50'. The trauma has been reduced with the addition of a couple bolts at the 1/3 and 2/3 marks, but you'll still want a #6 camalot before the first and after the second. This, 2 draws, and a #5 Friend should do it; the rest just gets in the way. If you backclean the big one after the first bolt you won't need the 2 that Bloom's guide calls for.

Location

Ascends directly to the K.O.P./BJ notch.

Descent: single-rope from summit to 2. DO NOT use the old belay/rap anchors at the base of the chimney unless you want to repeat the classic stuck-rope prussik maneuver enjoyed by many; rather, look for a newer set of chains about 10 feet lower and closer to the King of Pain. This will enable you to reach the ground in one 60-meter rap; reportedly a 70m rope will barely work in two raps (see Powders commentary).

Protection

2 each from TCU's to 3.5", a 5 Friend, and an old 5/new 6 Camalot. Long runners. Headlamp & prussiks if disregarding rap beta.

Photos

Big Bert
Golden, Colorado
Big Bert   Golden, Colorado
Highly disappointed in the first 2 pitches - pretty chossy (i understand why the route only got 2. stars) and anchor tat could serve to be replaced. The 3rd pitch was the only redeeming factor of this route. Bring a BD #6, a new #5 and new #4, bring a second #5 or an old #4 if you dont want to bump your only piece of gear for the first +20 feet. A #4 might protect the final moves but I burrowed in and placed my 6 (almost tipped out) and ran the last 20 feet of the chimney out - pulling the face moves felt a little spicy because of this :). #perfectchickenwings

Oh yea, rap from the anchors that AREN'T in the chimney. May 17, 2017
Fritz N.
Durango, CO
Fritz N.   Durango, CO
P1: Clipping that bolt felt pretty heads-up first thing in the morning. There's gear at your feet on the ledge, but it's in a bad block. My next piece was a #0.4 five feet below the ledge. You could get a couple micros just below the ledge. The moves are 5.9.

P2: Intermittent jamming and liebacking.

P3: This is where I started enjoying the route. The flared start offers the best chicken wings this side of the Mason-Dixon Line. As for the squeeze, I'm 5'10a" and 145lbs, and I fit inside with only minimal use of expletives. Larger folk may wish to consult a thesaurus pre-climb.

The chimney exit moves could have been protected by a #4, but I didn't bring it, and I would've been in the groundfall zone. So, I downclimbed the entire chimney to snag my second #6 from the second bolt, then squeezed back up to mantle out in security.

Rap: One seventy reached from the notch to the top of P1 with several feet to spare. As instructed, we made sure to avoid the obvious rap station in the chimney, and instead found the correct anchor ten feet south of it. This station is obvious to parties rapping King of Pain, but not Wildflower. Apr 12, 2016
Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
 
+1 for Lucas' comment regarding a 70 getting you to the last rap station. Our 70 got us within a few feet of the anchors, and we each had to place gear, clip in with a PAS, and essentially down-lead clipping into gear for 8-10 feet.

2nd pitch was phenomenal fun. Mar 19, 2014
Lucas
Asheville, NC
  5.10+ PG13
Lucas   Asheville, NC
  5.10+ PG13
Awesome route with varied climbing.
A fall while maneuvering up to the first bolt on pitch 1 is ill advised....should prob get a PG-13 for that section.
Pitch 3 felt around 10+ to me, but is super well protected....so get on it.
Rapping with 1 70 got us about 8 feet shy of the final rapp station....Bring 2 Ropes. Nov 12, 2013
Princess Mia
Vail
  5.10c/d
Princess Mia   Vail
  5.10c/d
Excellent route!
P1 is 5.9, but I leaving the sandy ledge half way up and climbing past the bolt has some pucker factor especially if one is short, as a few sandy moves are required before clipping the bolt, and the last available pro is below the ledge.
P2 is pretty straight forward 5.10a. Easy jamming and a few fun little moves.
P3 is absolutely wonderful. The initial stemming/chimney/squeeze is easy and protects well with a #4.5. Then there are two bolts before the final squeeze/OW (crux). A #5 protects nicely before slithering in it, but then one must climb a ways before a #6 will fit. A #4 Big Bro could be useful for that section. The crux is probably only 3 feet or so but pretty strenuous depending on how big you are. I could get into it and sort of slither up half an inch at a time using my "bosom" as a jamming devise (lol) combined with a chicken wing. My husband had to stay outside and use typical OW technique.
After spending 3 weekends at Vedauvoo, this climb didn't seem to bad.
Overall - super fun!!! Sep 7, 2011
JoergB
Germany
  5.10a
JoergB   Germany
  5.10a
I would consider the 3rd pitch significantly the easiest of all pitches. To the first bolt it is easy stemming, past this and the second there are enough ledges and holds to consider this sport climbing or at worst a fun offwidth. Only the exit chimney was a bit burly as I did not fit in and had to climb this as ow, and therefore I would rate a 5.9. Kristina, who fit in, would not accept any rating higher than 5.8. A #6 camalot was useful to homogenize the pro after the 2nd bolt; I had no use for the #5. Oct 14, 2009
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
WIthout question the third pitch of this thing is harder than Vision Quest. Ten-a is a complete sandbag. Apr 2, 2008
Recommend rapping "Aging Salesman" 5.11+ new half inch bolts/chain. Two 60 meter ropes needed. Mar 24, 2008
Chris Perkins
Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.10a
Chris Perkins   Buena Vista, Colorado
  5.10a
Felt the 2nd pitch was solid 5.10. Great pitch. No one was willing to do the third pitch. We need some character building for sure. Never had the need for a #5 on 2nd pitch, but would on 3rd. (next time) Apr 22, 2006