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Routes in The Bridger Jacks

Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beer n' Cookies V0 4
East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hoop Dancer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Kokanee Corner , The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Learning to Crawl T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Powders of Persuasion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sandy Vag V1 5
Sparkling Touch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wild Flower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Josh Gross, Sam Lightner, Zach Smith
Page Views: 1,378 total, 12/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route ascends roughly the middle of the southeast face of Bridger Jack Butte.
P1 Start slightly righ of a good corner... climb the corner clipping two bolts in the crux then stepping right to a good ledge with fixed station. 10+, 120 ft
P2 Climb up and right on steep hands and edges to a dirty chimney (short). You have an option of going left or right out the roof... Right is much harder, but has a bolt. Left has a funky move then a hand crack that leads to a sloping ledge and fixed anchor.
5.11+, 130 ft
P3 Climb up and left clipping a bolt for a wild stemming crux... a big nut is good for your first piece above the bolt. After that, follow obvious hands and big-hands crack to the cap layer. Step right to another fixed anchor. 5.11, 120 ft
P4 Climb up and then left on the scree and slabs of the summit cap. Occasional easy boulder problem... Might be easier to break it inot two considering drag. Wandering 70 feet of 4th class and boulder problems.

This route would be quite good except the middle section of the second pitch, in my opinion, is less than stellar. The thrid pitch is good INdian Creek climbing.

The route is probably the best rappel route off the Butte... No, it is the best. It is pretty muchb straight up and down on 1/2 inch bolts. No, dont' do it with one 70 meter rope.

Location

Middle of the butte.

Protection

From biggest to smallest, take (friends) 1 #5, 1#4, 4 #3.5, 3 #3, and 2 of each below that. Bring a couple of slings and draws. You need two 60's to get down.
Mei
Mei  
This comment is solely about rappelling Aging Salesman. Beefy anchors top to bottom.

Rappel #1 : Single 70m rope rappel. Looking down from the top anchor, there are two notches. Take the right one (facing out).


Rappel #2: Single 70m rope rappel.

Rappel #3: Single 70m rope will NOT get you down on the big platform. We had a 2nd rope with us. Cannot comment on down climb.

Rappel #4: Single 70m rope rappel down to ground. May 7, 2017
khoa
Tacomarado
khoa   Tacomarado
Rappels easily with an 80m rope.
Anchors are easily seen below the actual summit 'tier'. Stay left on the first rap Apr 13, 2016
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
After coming back to this route following an ascent of Wildflower, I have added a star. Its a two star route. However, if you compare it to Powders or Wildflower, its a four star route. My stars are compared to other routes NOT on Bridger Jack Butte. This is probably the second best route on the Butte... which tells you something about this rock.

The only people who rappel Wildflower now should be King of Pain ascenders and bailers. This is definately the best rap route. The chains are just below the summit. Apr 2, 2008
Josh Gross  
 
Dougald cool, sounds like you guys climbed to the right of pitch 1 and 2 of our route. Our pitch 1 was 5.9 A2 and now is 5.10+. With some traffic pitch 2 should clean up. The right side of the roof on pitch 2, the way Sam and I originally went, has a bolt and probably is 5.12. On our descent, we realized we would be able to free climb the left side of the roof easier. The left side is Aging Salesman's crux. Your route and our route share pitch 3, which has a cool 5.11 stem crux. Mar 7, 2008
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
 
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
 
It was hard to believe someone hadn't been there before... now we know you were. I also did not get the free ascent. Josh and I got on this thing last year after he and Zach had begun working it and abandoned it like 5 years ago. Josh and I got to the summit, but I fell in t he stemming corner and he fell going out the right side of the roof. Those guys went back last week and finished it up cleanly.

The name stems from Josh. Zach came up with it. Josh is continuously sellinig us on his routes, and we are continually qustioning their quality... but he must be a good salesman cus despite those quality issues that seem to come up regulalry (the guy likes getting sandy), we keep coming back. As per the word "Aging", I'm not sure if its cus Josh is now well into his 30's (still a baby from my view), or if its cus the sales pitches are getting old... he no longer says "its good", but instead uses words like "unique" and "energizing".

BTW, I think Josh gives this 8 stars... I'd stick with one. The first pitch is ok and the 3rd pitch is good. The breakup in the middle is icky-poo-poo. Mar 7, 2008
This is basically the FFA of an old route, Still Alive at 35, which Dave Goldstein and I climbed in 1995 at 5.11 C2. We climbed a different first pitch, to the right of this line, at 5.10 or so, and we took a different line through the roof on the second pitch, but the rest of the route is the same. We did a couple of aid moves over the right side of the roof, and we aided the beginning of the third pitch (the blank stemming corner) with a lucky toss of a Tri-Cam into the bottom of the crack. Otherwise we free-climbed.

Anyway, it's great to see the route get a free ascent. Maybe that second pitch would clean up with some traffic? Mar 7, 2008