Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Josh Gross, Sam Lightner, Zach Smith
Page Views: 1,497 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Mar 7, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This route ascends roughly the middle of the southeast face of Bridger Jack Butte.
P1 Start slightly righ of a good corner... climb the corner clipping two bolts in the crux then stepping right to a good ledge with fixed station. 10+, 120 ft
P2 Climb up and right on steep hands and edges to a dirty chimney (short). You have an option of going left or right out the roof... Right is much harder, but has a bolt. Left has a funky move then a hand crack that leads to a sloping ledge and fixed anchor.
5.11+, 130 ft
P3 Climb up and left clipping a bolt for a wild stemming crux... a big nut is good for your first piece above the bolt. After that, follow obvious hands and big-hands crack to the cap layer. Step right to another fixed anchor. 5.11, 120 ft
P4 Climb up and then left on the scree and slabs of the summit cap. Occasional easy boulder problem... Might be easier to break it inot two considering drag. Wandering 70 feet of 4th class and boulder problems.

This route would be quite good except the middle section of the second pitch, in my opinion, is less than stellar. The thrid pitch is good INdian Creek climbing.

The route is probably the best rappel route off the Butte... No, it is the best. It is pretty muchb straight up and down on 1/2 inch bolts. No, dont' do it with one 70 meter rope.

Location

Middle of the butte.

Protection

From biggest to smallest, take (friends) 1 #5, 1#4, 4 #3.5, 3 #3, and 2 of each below that. Bring a couple of slings and draws. You need two 60's to get down.

Photos