Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Bridger Jacks

Aging Salesman T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Basket Case T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Beer n' Cookies V0 4
East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Egg Drop Soup T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hoop Dancer T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
Kokanee Corner , The T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Learning to Crawl T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Malidea T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Out From the Shadows T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Powders of Persuasion T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rim Shot T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Rites of Passage T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sacred Space T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sandy Vag V1 5
Sparkling Touch T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sucker Punch T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Vision Quest T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Wild Flower T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ziji T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jason Nelson, Mary Harlan, Jack Jefferies, Lizzy Scully
Page Views: 850 total · 24/month
Shared By: Jason Nelson 1 on Apr 10, 2015
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Sucker Punch is a great splitter crack route. The name derives from a rope that got stuck and upon releasing, gave me a shiner, just days before I was to start a new job.

P1: Begin 3rd classing up a stepped buttress. Climb double cracks in left facing corner to ledge. Move left, clip a bolt and up choosy ramp to bolted anchor. 5.8, 80'.

P2: Step left over some chose to reach the base of the steep splitter crack. Climb past some solidly wedged blocks then through overhang (golds and blues). Continue up narrowing crack until you can step left for a rest. Choose between 4 camalot crack (right) or .75 camalot crack (left). Finish up a short section of #5 camalots to bolted belay. 5.11, 100'.

P3: Climb up wide crack into an acute corner past some blocks to a ledge. Bust out the roof and continue up steep leaning #4 camalot crack finishing on a section of #3 camalots to bolted anchor. It's possible to cut right into the other crack system (Out From the Shadows) and avoid the steep off width for an easier grade (5.11?). 5.12, 100'.

P4: Climb splitter in right facing corner above the belay. Mostly #4's, and can place a #5. Climb to a ledge. Take the crack through the next band of rock, but step left to top it out to avoid choss. Belay from gear or tied off boulders.

P5: Hike about half a rope length across the ledge to the east face. There are a couple clean cracks to climb. I've been climbing the leftmost - #1 cams through a bulge. Easy, maybe 5.8 and about 40'. Belay from bolts.

Descent: Rappel route or Out From the Shadows is a more straight line down. You'll need a directional if you want to reach the anchors on top of Pitch 2 of Sucker Punch.

Location

This route is located on the NW facing corner of the Bridger Jack Butte.
Hike up the Bridger Jack Trail from the campground. Go right along the base of the wall until you wrap around to the west face of the Bridger Jack Butte. Just as the trail begins to descend there will be a little alcove on the left. This is the staging area. The route begins just around the corner to the right.

Protection

1x: #.3 blue, #.4 grey, #.5 purple, #5 purple camalots
2x: #1 Red Camalots
3x: .75 Green, #2 Yellow Camalots
4x: #3 Blue Camalots
5x-6x: #4 Camalot
Half a dozen extendable slings
70M Rope suggested

Photos

Ben Griffin
Durango, CO
Ben Griffin   Durango, CO
It looks like a great route! I can't wait to try it! Apr 22, 2015

More About Sucker Punch

Printer-Friendly Guide