Elevation: 4,537 ft
GPS: 34.79, -111.774 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,022 total · 230/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 10, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

South Castle Tower, or simply Castle Rock to some. It's a classic fin-type formation in that it appears as a spire from two aspects, and as a butte from the complimentary two. Routes abound on the broad flanks, mostly on upper Sycamore Pass sandstone and lower Coconino sandstone. Looming directly above the Village of Oak Creek, this is a great hang. The climbing is pretty fun too, thanks to a smorgasbord of moderates. Short approach, iconic summit, fun routes, decent rock quality, year-round sun/shade options... what more could ya ask for? A wilderness setting?! hah!!

Getting There

Just north of the Village of Oak Creek, park in the Bell Rock Trailhead parking lot (you'll need a Red Rocks pass), then, looking both ways, cross Hwy-179 and head west on the Templeton trail. See attached photos for orientation. The approach hike will take less than 30 minutes or less and follows a well established hiking trail the whole way up to the saddle, which separates the North and South Castle Towers. In general you will find good trails connecting the different ledge systems on each formation. 

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Castle Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Royalty
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 9
Transylvania Trip
Trad 6 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Jester
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Mrs. Robinson
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 6
Gargoyle
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Mid-Evil Times
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 12
Excalibur
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 8
Tweaker
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 3
Henchman
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Royalty
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Transylvania Trip
 9
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Jester
 6
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mrs. Robinson
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Gargoyle
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mid-Evil Times
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Excalibur
 12
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Tweaker
 8
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Henchman
 3
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in South Castle Tower »

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