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Routes in South Castle Tower

Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jester T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Robinson T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Elevation: 4,692 ft
GPS: 34.79, -111.774 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 4,261 total · 104/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 10, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Of the two prominent towers extending south from Castle Rock, this is the south one. Looming directly above the Village of Oak Creek, this is truly a classic desert tower - tall, slender, and visually arresting. The climbing is pretty classic too, thanks to a smorgasbord of new trad moderates. Boasting what might be one of the shortest approaches to Sedona's beloved Coconino sandstone, this formation is sure to be a destination for folks wanting to buck the sandona spookfest trend and instead try out some clean, well protected splitter lines more reminiscent of the Moab area. Short approach, iconic tower, fun routes, year-round sun/shade... what more could ask for?! (A wilderness setting? hah!)

Getting There

Just north of the Village of Oak Creek, park in the Bell Rock Trailhead parking lot (you'll need a Red Rocks pass), then, looking both ways, cross Hwy-179 and head west on the Templeton trail. See attached photos for orientation. The approach hike will take less than 30 minutes or less and follows a well established hiking trail the whole way up to the saddle, which separates the North and South Castle Towers. In general you will find good trails connecting the different ledge systems on each formation. 

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at South Castle Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
Royalty
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Jester
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Mid-Evil Times
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
Excalibur
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 5
Mrs. Robinson
Trad 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Tweaker
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Royalty
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jester
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Mid-Evil Times
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Excalibur
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mrs. Robinson
 5
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Tweaker
 3
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in South Castle Tower »

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