Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017)
Page Views: 713 total · 24/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Apr 21, 2018
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Gargoyle is a tall, varied crack pitch with hilarious patina holds all over the place. Mostly all-day shade with late-afternoon sun in the summer.

Gargoyle (5.10-, 110 feet): A big natural X-shaped streak marks the start with wicked cool pods in an angular, right-facing corner. A 25-ft layback brings you to a big ledge (this is the base of the rappel). Look out right for the lone bolt, and edge out past it on a thrilling rail traverse. Turn the mini-arête and now you're in the main crack system which has some marginal rock initially. Higher up, you'll find abundant face holds and the crack takes a slight leftward lean. Follow it all the way up to the Gargoyle Ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.

The good climbing ends here, and a two-bolt chain anchor allows you to rap 80 feet to safe ground. The optional summit pitch is nothing to write home about - in fact, it detracts from the overall route experience - but it gets ya to the top if that's the desire.

Optional summit slog (5.6, 100 feet): Walk left, squeeze through the varnished chimney, stroll into the upper amphitheatre, and bee-line it for the summit on broken cracks. This pitch is "alpine style" so runner all yer gear. If you go to the summit, then you'll want to rappel the North Face route. The raps kinda suck on that one.

Location

See phototopo. From the saddle between North and South Castle Towers, head due south up the ridge toward the big clean face. About 25 feet below the wall, traverse right and slightly downward on narrow ledges to the true start of the climb: a 25-ft right-facing corner marked by a large X-shaped streak on the left wall. You could bypass this starting corner, but besides being part of the intended route it's good clean climbing and gets you warmed up for the committing step off the ledge to the first bolt.
(Total approach time: 25-30 minutes)

Protection

Double set of cams to 3" + nuts
+ extra finger-size gear optional
+ many long runners!
+ one 60m rope

Photos