Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft (33 m)|
|FA:||Derek Field & Dave Spies (2017)|
|Page Views:||713 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Derek Field on Apr 21, 2018|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Gargoyle (5.10-, 110 feet): A big natural X-shaped streak marks the start with wicked cool pods in an angular, right-facing corner. A 25-ft layback brings you to a big ledge (this is the base of the rappel). Look out right for the lone bolt, and edge out past it on a thrilling rail traverse. Turn the mini-arête and now you're in the main crack system which has some marginal rock initially. Higher up, you'll find abundant face holds and the crack takes a slight leftward lean. Follow it all the way up to the Gargoyle Ledge with two-bolt chain anchor.
The good climbing ends here, and a two-bolt chain anchor allows you to rap 80 feet to safe ground. The optional summit pitch is nothing to write home about - in fact, it detracts from the overall route experience - but it gets ya to the top if that's the desire.
Optional summit slog (5.6, 100 feet): Walk left, squeeze through the varnished chimney, stroll into the upper amphitheatre, and bee-line it for the summit on broken cracks. This pitch is "alpine style" so runner all yer gear. If you go to the summit, then you'll want to rappel the North Face route. The raps kinda suck on that one.
(Total approach time: 25-30 minutes)