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> Village of Oak…
> Castle Rock Area
> Castle Rock
Tweaker
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.1 from 9
votes
Routes in Castle Rock
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Bloody Mary S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Coronation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dark Ages T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Disenchantment T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Dungeon Diving T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Elfo's Revenge S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gargoyle T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Gillotine (left) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gillotine (right) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jester T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King's Cup S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mrs. Robinson T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nights of the Round Table S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Off With His Chickenhead! S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pitchfork Uprising S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Transylvania Trip T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Welcome to the Royal Family S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Witch Doctor, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Dave Spies, Derek Field, Giselle Field (2018) |
| Page Views: | 1,542 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on May 27, 2018 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Tweaker is a bolted seam/dihedral with easy access and sustained psychological climbing from bottom to top. This route carries a dash of Sedona spice in terms of rock quality. Visiting sport climbers beware.
Burly boulder problem off the ground, then a long stretch of adventurous crimping and stemming followed by some airy face climbing on textured rock.
Burly boulder problem off the ground, then a long stretch of adventurous crimping and stemming followed by some airy face climbing on textured rock.
Location
This route faces north and climbs the tallest aspect of the Drawbridge (small satellite formation on SE side of South Castle Tower). Head up toward the south face (Royalty, Excalibur, Jester, etc...) and you can't miss this thing. It's the bolted dihedral across the gully from the start of Mrs Robinson. Total approach time: 20-30 mins.
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