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Routes in South Castle Tower

Excalibur T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gargoyle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Henchman T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Jester T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mid-Evil Times T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Robinson T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face Route, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royalty T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tweaker S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Spies, Derek Field, Giselle Fernandez (2018)
Page Views: 218 total · 38/month
Shared By: Derek Field on May 27, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

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Description

Tweaker is a sport-bolted seam/dihedral with sustained climbing from bottom to top. This route is super fun with a dash of Sedona spice in terms of rock quality.

Burly boulder problem off the ground, then a long stretch of crimping and stemming followed by some airy face climbing on textured rock. Exciting finish!

Location

This route faces north and climbs the tallest aspect of the Drawbridge (small satellite formation on SE side of South Castle Tower). Head up toward the south face (Royalty, Excalibur, Jester, etc...) and you can't miss this thing. It's the bolted dihedral across the gully from the start of Mrs Robinson. Total approach time: 20-30 mins.

Protection

10 bolts
2-bolt chain anchor

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