Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Derek & Giselle Field (Nov 2019) — ground-up
Page Views: 2,426 total · 49/month
Shared By: Derek Field on Nov 11, 2019
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is a multi-pitch variety pack up one of the tallest crack systems on the formation. The pitches are all about the same difficulty, more or less, but quite different from one another. There is a crux boulder problem on the final pitch. This route has all bolted belays and all day shade. Use caution as the route is still cleaning up.

Pitch 1 (5.8+, 70'): Approach pitch can be fun with the right attitude. Climb the mossy/sandy right-leaning ramp past marginal gear and 5 well-camouflaged bolts. Two-bolt belay on ledge between junipers.

Pitch 2 (5.8, 60'): Ramble up sandy lumps into the short/sweet offwidth. Two-bolt belay in alcove.

Pitch 3 (5.8, 60'): Quest up the cavernous chimney to a wild roof exit. Two-bolt belay on ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.7+, 70'): Walk right along the ramp and climb the left-facing offwidth staircase. Two-bolt belay on ledge.

Pitch 5 (5.8, 70'): Just right of the belay anchor is a left-facing chimney with a splitter fist crack beside it. Jam and stem this arrangement to a ledge with two-bolt anchor. Be careful of loose stones in the chimney.

Pitch 6 (5.9+, 70'): Follow the finger crack up to a two-bolt boulder problem on amazing patina crimps. Walk 10' right to a varnished handcrack which steepens for a heroic finish. Throw a fist pump from the finishing jug! Craft a thoughtful belay using horizontals and a bomber thread.

Easy scrambling along the ridge takes you to the summit.

Descent: From the top of the route, walk 20 feet left (east) and find the two-bolt chain anchor. Rap from here to the P5 anchor, then rap the route. With a 70m rope, you can skip the P2 anchor.

Location Suggest change

This is the prominent left-facing corner system in the middle of the broad north face. Approach is 30 minutes or less. Hike the trail up toward the saddle between Castle Towers. From the tree junction (before the saddle), take a left to start hiking around toward the south face routes. The trail soon takes you within 50 yards of the base of Transylvania Trip. Look for the first bolt, about 30 feet up.

Protection Suggest change

Single set cams to 6"
opt. extra 2-4" cams
single rope - 70m preferred