Finale Ligure Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Feb 8, 2012|
|Admins:||Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath|
Located nearly halfway between Genoa and the French border near Monte Carlo, providing easy access for those on a French/Italian coastal road trip, or, a nice reload should the weather/conditions be poor in the alps.
Situated on the northern coast of the Ligurian Sea, with a nice beach, a great medieval walled city, fine dining, gelato, plenty of lodging options, Finale Ligure makes for a fine holiday climbing destination.
Most of the climbing is spread out on the hillsides above town, with the notable exception of the seaside climbing area of Capo Noli.
Over 130 sectors at 30 different crags makes for an overwhelming amount of choices. Some of the most popular areas are:
- Bric Pianarella: from 1 to 9 pitch routes on a visually appealing cliff. One of the taller venues in the area.
- Rocca di Perti: Visible from the A10, this crag is big! 13 sectors, over 300 routes.
- Monte Cucco: 9 sectors, couple hundred routes, camping (and pizza!), great views
- Rian Cornei: A somewhat confusing cluster of 19 sectors in this large area.
- Monte Sordo: 5 sectors of some of the most enjoyable climbing in Finale.
- Rocca di Corno: One of the first cliffs to be climbed in the area, and, still one of the nicest. Sunny with a great vista and four sectors. Approach includes nice view of a Roman bridge.
- Capo Noli: the seaside climbing local. 3 sectors with an abundance of easier climbing, some multi pitch, making this area VERY popular with visiting climbers. Close enough to the water that keeping the rope dry is an issue.
Gorgeous limestone, fun, fantastic routes at all grades, multi pitch, single pitch, pockets, edges, roofs, tufas, this area has a great deal of climbing to offer all with a near year round climate. Spring and fall are the prime times, winter and summer can be doable.
Gear should include a 60m rope, but, a 70m will prove more useful. A set of a dozen draws and a few cams/nuts will suffice for a variety of the climbing. Some of the longer, older routes benefit from a more traditional approach (!).
The Club Alpino Italianos Finale Ligure section is located in Finalborgo. Hospitable folks and a good source for information on the area.
Rockstore in the walled city of Finalborgo is the climbing shop with plenty of guidebooks, shoes, chalk, draws, rope and a good selection of clothing. Across the square is the Bar Centrale which has great gelato, espresso, and adult beverages to round out the day. Several excellent restaurants nearby as well.
Other activities would have to include mountain biking which is very popular here.
To get to the towns of Finalborgo and/or Finale Ligure, exit the A10 at Finale Ligure (easy, no?). The SS 490 passes by Finalborgo to the left on the way down to Finale Ligure.
The tourist office in Finale Ligure is located pretty much right off the beach, just as the main SP1 road bends back to the east in Finale Marina. Well signed with the standard i for tourist information.
To access most of the main climbing areas above town, the quicker exit from the A10 is Feglino which provides quick and easy access to Monte Cucco, Rian Cornei, Bric Pianarella, etc.
Some distances to Finale Ligure:
130 km from Nice: 1.5 hours.
100 km from French border: 1:15.
75 km from Genoa: 1 hour.
160 km from Turin: 1:45.
200 km from Milan: 2 hours.
Classic Climbing Routes at Finale Ligure
Days w Precip