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Routes in Settore Centrale

L'Arco dei Guaitechi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fessura Oliva S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 840 ft
GPS: 44.197, 8.317 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 5, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe
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Description

The center sector of Monte Sordo, easily recognizable from the large, orange cutout which starts at ground level left of the main bulk of the 60m high main cliff, has around 26 routes with the classics being in the 5c to 7a grades.

The rock is superb, with large corner cracks, wide crack features, steep flow stone, pockets and great views down valley.

Route development at this sector started with the obvious crack lines in ’73 and ’79 continuing into the mid eighties up until around 1993.

Several two and three pitch routes, providing great views above the trees of the picturesque countryside.

Getting There

Approach from either the next lowest parking lot from the end of the road, or, from the main lot at road’s end.

Quickest approach from the lower lot: follow the trail down to the valley floor, then, a narrow trail leads up to the "cascina del Buio" (the dairy house of darkness) and leads to a larger track. Follow this up a number of steep switchbacks in the forest, ignoring smaller spur trails. At the main (and hopefully signed) trail junction, stay left and soon enough, pop out into a small clearing just below the large orange cutout grotto. A quick, steep scramble up leads to the signed crag.

A neat tour is to approach or egress by using the track from the end of the road. For this approach, take the main right hand road through olive groves past a small cluster of houses (case Monte Sordo), past the small chapel, then to the right to a stream crossing. Some paved trail. Staying right, the trail passes under the Alveare e Placca di Mu sector and continues along the base of the rocks over to the center sector.

Approach can be kind of confusing. Hang in there, backtrack, and keep working up towards the cliffs: you'll make it!

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Settore Centrale

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