Capo Noli Rock Climbing
|GPS:||44.196, 8.425 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Brian in SLC on Mar 31, 2012|
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DescriptionCapo Noli is THE place for seaside climbing in Finale Ligure. The climbing here is right over the water and the setting is unique for the area.
Location location location.
Good climbing right above the beautiful, blue Mediterranean sea. Has a bit of a private feel to it, sheltered below the road traffic above.
South facing, this area could be hot in the sun in all seasons except winter. Fall and spring can be tolerable, especially if theres a breeze.
Capo Noli is comprised of three sectors:
- Dancing Dalle: a small area with the first 7a in Finale (the namesake of the sector, established in 1982). Around 10 routes, from 12 to 18m single pitch, ranging from a couple of 5cs to the harder classics in the 7 range.
- Pilastri: The pillars, an area with more features and popular grades from 5a to 7a+. 10 routes on two pillars.
- Nolitudine: Possibly the most popular and comfortable sector, with an amusing approach and a large ledge to help keep the rope from getting too wet. A somewhat eastern aspect has this area going into shade in the afternoon. Around a dozen 1 to 3 pitch routes from easier 4b grades up to 6b+, making this a great place for folks wanting to climb easier routes.
Approach by rappel and/or fixed rope from the rim near the seaside paved road.
Theres also a couple popular seaside traverses. 400m 6a to 1500m 6b+ obl "Y2K" starting somewhere around the approach side of Nolitude, and, ending up at the Pilastri sector.
The area is also known for having a bit of moderate deep water soloing. Take care with the waves as some of the rocks on the exit are very sharp and most locations seem a bit undercut.
Getting ThereFrom Finale Ligure, take the SP1 highway, the seaside Via Aurelia, to the east. The cape sticking out between Varigotti and Noli is Capo Noli.
The climbing areas are bounded by the two tunnels, Malpasso and Capo Noli.
Parking area after the Malpasso tunnel on the left (non-seaside) for Dancing Dalle and another opposite Pilastri on that sectors east side.
Parking lot for Nolitudine just past the Capo Noli tunnel (quick right when exiting the tunnel) prior to coming around into Noli.
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Prime Climbing Season