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Areas in Rocca di Corno

Settore Est 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Settore Sud-Est 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 670 ft
GPS: 44.195, 8.365 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,596 total · 22/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Mar 12, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath
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Description

If there was only time to hit a couple of crags in the Finale Ligure area, Rocca di Corno would have to be on the short list.

Aspects at this "horned fortress" range from east to mostly south making this a sunny destination, popular in winter, or, a place to chase the shade in the warmer months.

Historically one of the earlier places rock climbing took hold in the area, most likely due to the stunning presence of the cliff above the Fiumara valley.

Fun, improbably wonderful routes from really steep easy jug hauls, tufas, technical face, pockets, overhangs, pillars, cracks; this place has it all in a fairly compact area.

Nearly 100 routes, grades range from a number of high quality moderates in the 4c to 5c range, many classic 6’s, on up to 7b+ (and probably harder).

The area is broken into 4 sectors:

  • Settore Est: one pitch routes at this long, lower area to the right of the big face. Hot in sun in the morning. Good winter destination. Summer after the sun has passed.
  • Settore Sud-Est: purported to be heavily travelled due to classic easier routes. Older routes, plenty of interesting old iron and bolts. Around 8 one and two pitch routes wedged in a shadier corner of the big south face.
  • Settore Sud: the main, big face with stunning looking routes to three pitches. This is the view from the parking lot that’ll suck you up the trail.
  • Settore Ovest: noted for beautiful overhanging routes especially in the 5 and 6 grade range. Several two pitch options. Located on the far left (west) side of the big south face.

Note that there is a permanent ban on climbing for raptor protection on the crags to the NW of Settore Ovest.
Raptor protection area Details

Getting There

From the beach at Finale Ligure, head from Finalpia to Calvisio. Turn right towards Verzi on a skinny road. After a kilometer, look for a parking lot and a signed dirt road on the left (east).

Either park and walk up the dirt road, or, drive for less than a kilometer and park in the obvious parking lot under the SE face of the looming Rocca di Corno.

Trails marked in red lead to the base of the crag. Note the Roman bridge.

Alternatively, one could drive from Feglino through Orco, then south to Calvisio.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rocca di Corno

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dreams
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dreams Settore Est 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
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