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Routes in Settore della Torre

Diedro Canale 3 S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ecnaton 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Il Ballista 6c S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
La Torre S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mario Valentini 5c S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Miguel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Moby Dick S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Serenella 6b S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Calcagno & Grillo July 1969
Page Views: 664 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Feb 27, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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The classic two pitch route and the namesake route of this sector.

One of the earlier routes at Monte Cucco.

Climb up a steep, kind of polished, strenuous and tricky face on exact pockets, to a slightly left slanting crack which straightens out as one progresses straight up. Belay anchor on face just left of a bush and right of a bigger ledge in the trees. 5.9+/5.10a. 25m.

Climb to the right and up, above the bush. Follow the cracks/grooves up and past a shallow roof to a belay stance and anchor. 5.10a, 30m.
Nice, fat stainless glue-in bolts.

Can top out the formation (take care!) or rappel route.


Located around 7m left of the big corner route, Diedro Canale.

Just left of the Che Guevara variation start (5c) and left of Mani DÂ’Oro which starts at the big corner (aka Diedro Canale).

Starts right of the much harder looking Ecnaton (6a+).

If you wander your gaze straight down the left edge of the Tower, La Torre starts straight below.


Set of quick draws. A few spots where cams/nuts can supplement the fixed protection, but, for the most part, climbs have adequate fixed pro.