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Routes in Settore Centrale

Fessura Oliva S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
L'Arco dei Guaitechi S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sipario di pietra S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 195 ft, 2 pitches
FA: G. Calcagno, A. Grillo 1973
Page Views: 692 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Apr 6, 2012
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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The classic and historic lieback and corner crack at Monte Sordo!

Originally called, "Via della Marcia".

Long, strenuous and somewhat awkward. A great outing.

Pitch 1: Get your guns loaded, climb up the short slab to the crack, then lieback up and tough your way up through the first couple of clips. Rock is a little polished through here, making it seem even more insecure. At least its steeper than it looks (!). Follow the corner up (hard to get lost) milking stems, the face, back scums, to a fixed anchor that's 90 or so feet up at a semi uncomfy belay station.

Pitch 2: continue up the corner on tricky face and thin corner moves. Soon enough, the roof above becomes possible to grab on top of, which is where a couple of bolts will be found for protection (couple of should length slings prudent here for clipping into the bolts which are well away from the edge). Follow the curve until its possible to climb back to the left to the exposed belay station.

Great views from the top of the crag!

Sweaty in the sun. In warmer climes, hope for a breeze at least, as, especially the first pitch will feel like a furnace.

Descent: rappel route, or, swing over to the anchor on Sipario di Pietra (climber's right) and rappel to the ground from there.


The obvious large right facing curving corner crack in the middle of the sector.

"L'Arco" in faded paint at the base.

Located to the right of the crag plaque, past Fessura Oliva.

Look for a brite green bush growing on the left side of the crack at about 30 feet up or so.


A set of quickdraws and a few shoulder length slings for clipping bolts over the final roof arch.

Reasonably well bolted with glue-ins. Some fixed iron on the second pitch.



More About L'Arco dei Guaitechi