North Island Rock Climbing
|GPS:||-37.009, 174.786 Google Map · Climbing Area Map|
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|Shared By:||Ryan Kelly on Apr 1, 2009|
It may not have the expansive peaks, nor world famous bouldering of the south, but when it comes to cragging theres enough rock here to keep you busy for months, if not years. There are bits of rock all over the island here or there, but the main accumulation of established climbable rock is located in the central region of the island (Wharepapa South and Lake Taupo areas). A good percentage of this rock is volvanic, a vestige of one of the largest volcanic eruptions in earths history. The rock, ignimbrite, can vary considerably from worthless choss to pocketed sport climbing to fully-welded a denser formation with smooth cracks capable of holding sound gear. The rock at Lake Taupo, ground zero, is a purer Rhyolite; its denser that the ignimbrite round in Wharepapa South.
One of the best features of North Island climbing is the great variety of rock types and climbing styles all within close proximity to each other. For example at Waipapa there is delicate slab and crack climbing on welded ignimbrite, and just around the corner at Mangaokewa there is steep and powerful sport climbing on limestone. There is beautiful scenery in the North Island around most of the climbing areas, from the turquoise waters of Lake Taupo to the rolling planes of the Waikato, and lush native forest abounds. Be sure to check out Kawakawa bay (Lake Taupo) for some of the Islands best rock climbing. Castle Rock Coromandel is a close second with stunning multi pitch sport lines.
Having said all this, if you are visiting from overseas and only have time to visit one island I would recommend the South Island. Mountain project is not very comprehensive for South Island climbing, but there is alot of good stuff to do there (especially alpine style). Also consider the Arapiles in nearby Australia, it has some of the best trad climbing in the world.
Another resource for Topos is the local website www.freeclimb.co.nz. It has free downloadable and printible PDF's covering most of the crags. It is generally comprehensive but can sometimes be out of date for crags that are either being devloped, or smaller older crags that have been abandoned.
The website climbnz.org.nz has recently become alot more comprehensive, and now contains alot of information about climbing routes in the North Island, especially for alpine style areas.
The website NZ Topo Map is a great source of topographical map information, especially if the crag you are climbing at requires navigation for the approach.
Kawakawa Bay, multi pitch sport and trad in a stunning location
Castle Rock, Coromandel
Castle Rock, Coromandel. Great multipitch sport climbing.
Froggatt's Edge, Wharepapa South
Froggatt, a popular sport crag
Mangaokewa Scenic Reserve
Roof climbing at Mangaokewa
Waipapa, Wharepapa South
Climber on the Classic "Arches"
Tongariro National Park
Whakapapa Gorge, Tongariro National Park
(not to be confused with Mangaokewa)
Climbers on Archimedes wall
YDS-Ewbank grade conversion
Classic Climbing Routes at North Island
Days w Precip