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Quietly tucked away in the corner of Wharepapa South, unnoticed by the brigades of pocket-pulling sport climbers, is a clump of fully-welded ignimbrite with dihedrals and splitter cracks aplenty. Up on the hills above the dam the Waipapa walls offers a good assortment of traditional and sport climbs. The 15 minute hike in seems to ward off potential crowding; I never saw a single party there besides our own. Due to the lush forest and lack of use some of the more tucked away walls (e.g. Height of Summer Wall) can get grown over quickly, but the main wall is fairly clean.
See www.freeclimb.co.nz for further information.
20 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Waipapa:
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Millennium Madness 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a New Zealand : North Island : ... : Millenium Wall
An area classic. Climbs a thin finger crack in a right-facing corner that leads up to a roof with some good hand jams and ample feet. Pull around the roof and up to the belay anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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