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Routes in Main Wall

Al Fresco S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Automatic Dour S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Be Happy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Blazing Away S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bonne Anne S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burn S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Climatic Conclusion S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climatic Extension S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
One Mans Meat S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powder Queen S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Power Pack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roadweary S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Safe playing S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Serife S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Terror Incognito S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Thunderblaster S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Total Energy S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tulsa Time S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wall Flower S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Christmas S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Luke Newnham, Bryce Martin, Bryan Moore - 9 June 90
Page Views: 1,262 total, 12/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 1, 2009
Admins: Cameron Fraser

You & This Route


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Description

The other classic on the wall. Follows up the slab to the right of Terror Incognito, staying in the dihedral until right before the roof. Traverse left on thin technical moves to gain the lip of the roof and pull up and over right. Rest up, the final headwall provides adequate holds but you won’t get another chance to until the anchors.

Depending on how far left you traverse under the roof you could probably drop a letter grade off the rating. That said, I’ve climbed plenty of .11- sport in The States that was easier than this.

Location

Climbs up the slab/dihedral in the middle of the wall.

Protection

Retro-bolted, now sports 10 bolts and an anchor.

Photos

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