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Castle Rock

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Buddah Wall 
Quiet Earth Wall 

Castle Rock  

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Location: -36.7756, 175.5322 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Apr 19, 2013
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Long sport climbs up to 140m (460ft) on solid rock with fabulous views are why climbers come here. Huge potential for many more routes. Some trad routes are also being established.

See Rock Deluxe North or www.freeclimb.co.nz for more details.

Three main areas: Kookmeyers, Buddah Wall and Quiet Earth Wall

Getting There 

2 hours drive from Auckland. Drive towards Coromandel township. 3km before Coromandel town turn right down the 309 road. After a few km's you will pass a Waterworks on your left. 200m past the waterworks will be a turn off on your left down a dirt road labelled 'Castle Rock road'. Follow this dirt road, taking the turn off labelled 'Castle rock'. Don't go down any random forrestry side roads. When you are near Castle Rock (the huge clearly visible set of cliffs) park on the side of the road. Their is a large arrow on the side of the road make out of stones marking the start of the track.

Note: Occasionally the dirt road to Castle Rock is closed due to logging.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Seconding the exposed second pitch

The Links Effect 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : Kookmeyers
Fantastic multi pitch sport route with exposure that makes you think you are in the Arapiles.Pitch 1 - 50mA fantastic slab line alternatively know as "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish" that is well worth climbing in its own right. Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Castle Rock Slideshow Add Photo
The stone arrow marking the start of the track
The stone arrow marking the start of the track
20m after the stone arrow on the ground. turn righ...
20m after the stone arrow on the ground. turn righ...

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By Cameron Fraser
Apr 19, 2013
Feel free to add your own photos, routes and descriptions!
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