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Castle Rock

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Castle Rock  

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Location: -36.7756, 175.5322 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 332
Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Apr 19, 2013
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Long sport climbs up to 125m (400ft) on solid rock with fabulous views are why climbers come here. Huge potential for many more routes.

See Rock Deluxe North or www.freeclimb.co.nz for more details.

Getting There 

2 hours drive from Auckland. Just before Coromandel township turn right down the 309 road. After a few km's take a left down Castle Rock Rd, you can park on the right side of the road just after the road takes a sharp right. From here it is about a 30-40min walk to the crag (you can see it from here). The walking track is a little overgrown so plan accordingly. At certain times of the year this road is closed due to forestry operations and the walk in is considerably longer.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.2 miles from here

2 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For Castle Rock
Following the exposed second pitch

The Links Effect 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Oceania : New Zealand : ... : Castle Rock
Fantastic multi pitch sport route with exposure that makes you think you are in the Arapiles.Pitch 1 - 50mA fantastic slab line alternatively know as "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish" that is well worth climbing in its own right. Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted ...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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By Cameron Fraser
Apr 19, 2013
Feel free to add your own photos, routes and descriptions!
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