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Froggatt's Edge

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Froggatt's Edge 


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Location: -38.1585, 175.5284 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,663
Administrators: Cameron Fraser, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Apr 2, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Froggatt's Edge

Description 

Despite New Zealand’s reputation for being outdoor enthusiasts, they seem to have the same masses of lazy climbers as the rest of the world. The half-dozen or so other crags in the area require an easy 10-20 minute stroll to get to the (often superior) rock, yet chances are you won’t see anybody. They’re all at Froggatt’s, where you can park next to the climbs, access the clifftops to set topropes, and have access to over a hundred climbs without being out of ear-range of the stereo in your car blasting music. That said, there are a couple of fantastic sport climbs here.

The rock is a soft, heavily-pocketed ignimbrite, lending to a lot of the grid-bolting that you’ll find here. The guy over at Castle Rock tried to turn this place into a commercial venture as well, but as of March ’09 it’s still public. The signs pointing to the various walls still remain. What also remains though are robust 10x100mm U-bolts – according to the engineering study that was done due to commercial requirements they were the only style of bolts that would meet the 20kN requirement in this soft rock. If memory servers the traditional 3/8” bolt and hanger was still pretty strong; I never hesitated clipping them. Just about every route at Froggatt’s is well bolted with good hardware. Most of the climbs are “sporty” but there is the occasional old school route thrown in that may catch you off guard if you’re expecting a 5.8 sport route.

Keep in mind you are on private farmland, all the same rules apply: leave the gates as you found them, no dogs, no camping, be respectful of the animals.

Topo at www.freeclimb.co.nz


Getting There 

From Bryce's make an immediate right on Seafund Drive. Take your first left on Whatauri. After about a kilometer the road goes down, just before the river there is a gate on your right.


62 Total Routes


['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',4]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',7],['5.8',6],['5.9',10],['5.10',25],['5.11',8],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Froggatt's Edge:
Terror Incognito   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Wall
Monsterpiece Theatre   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 90'   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Froggatt's Edge

Featured Route For Froggatt's Edge
Looking up at the slab dihedral that leads to the overhanging headwall.  This is definitely one of the best sport climbs on the North Island.

Monsterpiece Theatre 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b  New Zealand : North Island : ... : Main Wall
The other classic on the wall. Follows up the slab to the right of Terror Incognito, staying in the dihedral until right before the roof. Traverse left on thin technical moves to gain the lip of the roof and pull up and over right. Rest up, the final headwall provides adequate holds but you won’t get another chance to until the anchors.Depending on how far left you traverse under the roof you could probably drop a letter grade off the rating. That said, I’ve climbed plenty of .11- sport in T...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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