BETA PHOTO: Froggatt's Edge
Despite New Zealand’s reputation for being outdoor enthusiasts, they seem to have the same masses of lazy climbers as the rest of the world. The half-dozen or so other crags in the area require an easy 10-20 minute stroll to get to the (often superior) rock, yet chances are you won’t see anybody. They’re all at Froggatt’s, where you can park next to the climbs, access the clifftops to set topropes, and have access to over a hundred climbs without being out of ear-range of the stereo in your car blasting music. That said, there are a couple of fantastic sport climbs here.
The rock is a soft, heavily-pocketed ignimbrite, lending to a lot of the grid-bolting that you’ll find here. The guy over at Castle Rock tried to turn this place into a commercial venture as well, but as of March ’09 it’s still public. The signs pointing to the various walls still remain. What also remains though are robust 10x100mm U-bolts – according to the engineering study that was done due to commercial requirements they were the only style of bolts that would meet the 20kN requirement in this soft rock. If memory servers the traditional 3/8” bolt and hanger was still pretty strong; I never hesitated clipping them. Just about every route at Froggatt’s is well bolted with good hardware. Most of the climbs are “sporty” but there is the occasional old school route thrown in that may catch you off guard if you’re expecting a 5.8 sport route.
Keep in mind you are on private farmland, all the same rules apply: leave the gates as you found them, no dogs, no camping, be respectful of the animals.
Topo information from www.freeclimb.co.nz or Rock Deluxe North
From Bryce's make an immediate right on Seafund Drive. Take your first left on Whatauri. After about a kilometer the road goes down, just before the river there is a gate on your right.
Climbing Season For the North Island area.
Weather station 7.5 miles from here
62 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',23],['Bomb',4]
Browse More Classics in Froggatt's Edge
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Froggatt's Edge:
Featured Route For Froggatt's Edge
Terror Incognito 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Oceania
: New Zealand
: ... : Main Wall
An absolute classic, one of the best in the park, and arguably one of the best sport routes in the general area. A big boulder move gets you onto the slab, step left to clip and move up the arête to the roof. Bypass the roof on the left and continue up the steepening headwall on fantastic holds. Seventy-five feet of continuous movement at the grade, I could see it argued to go a grade or two harder because of the consistency, but it’s not worth debating. A worthy tick if at your grade level,...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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