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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Elevation: 6,994 ft
GPS: 49.511, -121.622 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009
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The Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.
Gates may be closed. Details

Getting There

The mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.

From here, the approach to the summit splits. West and south facing routes are approached via Talc Creek North FSR, which requires 4wd and is about 12km long. From the driveable road in Talc Creek, hike a deactivated spur for 2 hours then bushwhack through the south side of the subalpine bowl and climb a forested headwall through old growth to good campsites at Daiphy Lake (1 hr up to lake from old road.) The base of the routes on the peak can be reached in about 1 hour from the lake over talus.

Routes on the north and east side of the Old Settler can be reached via Settler Creek road. Drive Cogburn Creek FSR from the logging camp to about the 15km mark, then cross a bridge to the south and double back into the Settler Creek drainage. The logging road here is deactivated and in poor shape but can be followed for 6km to a lake below the Settler's north face.

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Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
For anybody wishing to attempt the Old Settler via Daiphy Lake, there is now a 5 foot high log barricade right in front of the creek crossing before the gate, which means unless you have a monster truck it is literally impossible to drive past this. Count on an extra 4 hours of hiking (Alpine Select guidebook says 9.5km) up to where the 4wd accesible road ends. Aug 11, 2014
I have been interviewing a 97 year old WWII RCAF pilot who was involved in a crash investigation back in September 1941 on Old Settler Mountain. Does anyone know of the airplane crash site or seen evidence of an Anson airplane? If so and you have photos of the site, I would be very interested to see them and share them with Cliff. It is quite a story! I can be contacted via email at Thank you!

Anne Jul 2, 2014
Peter Spindloe
North Vancouver, BC
Peter Spindloe   North Vancouver, BC
Nice contribution Dru! Looks like a great area. Mar 17, 2009

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