The Old Settler Rock Climbing
Routes in The Old Settler
|Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a|
|Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c|
|West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b|
|West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|GPS:||49.511, -121.622 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Shared By:||Dru on Mar 16, 2009|
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DescriptionThe Old Settler is a rock peak located east of Harrison Lake in the Coast Mountains. The peak offers rock routes of up to 12 pitches length with a generally short and glacier-free approach, as well as good camping. The rock on the south side of the mountain is ultramafic and amongst the best in the Coast Mts - not to be missed - while on the north part of the mountain it decreases somewhat in quality. Most routes see some traffic but not can be considered busy; lineups are unlikely and seeing another party is rare.
Gates may be closed. Details
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Getting ThereThe mountain is usually approached via the Harrison East FSR (Forest Service Road) from Harrison Hot Springs. Drive the paved road up the east side of Harrison Lake to Sasquatch PP, then the gravel logging road north for about 25km to Bear Creek logging camp.
From here, the approach to the summit splits. West and south facing routes are approached via Talc Creek North FSR, which requires 4wd and is about 12km long. From the driveable road in Talc Creek, hike a deactivated spur for 2 hours then bushwhack through the south side of the subalpine bowl and climb a forested headwall through old growth to good campsites at Daiphy Lake (1 hr up to lake from old road.) The base of the routes on the peak can be reached in about 1 hour from the lake over talus.
Routes on the north and east side of the Old Settler can be reached via Settler Creek road. Drive Cogburn Creek FSR from the logging camp to about the 15km mark, then cross a bridge to the south and double back into the Settler Creek drainage. The logging road here is deactivated and in poor shape but can be followed for 6km to a lake below the Settler's north face.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season