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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Early 1960s
Page Views: 250 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

From Daiphy Lake, climb to col south of south peak. South ridge of south peak is climbed right of the crest and is mostly 3rd class with one 20m 4th class chimney. Descend into the south-central col and climb 2 4th-easy 5th pitches (4th class on right - up to 5.6 straight up corner from col) to the central summit with helipad. Traverse west and rappel or downclimb 15m step (stiff 4th) then traverse and downclimb or rappel another 60m to the north-central col. The north and highest summit is 3rd class scrambling from here.

Location

Descent from the north summit may take two paths: 1) backtrack to the north-central col, then descend the sloping gravel ramp on the west face (3rd class), or 2) rappel or downclimb 60m north from north summit into gully (stiff 4th) then downclimb long gully of solid rock, 3rd-4th class, to same spot - more difficult but more solid too.

Protection

Light rack - a couple large nuts and slings will suffice.

Photos

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