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Routes in The Old Settler

Black September T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Central Peak - West Buttress (Down/Duck) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Complete Northwest Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Contact Zone, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Duck a L'Orange T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
East Buttress of the South Peak T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mars Western T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
South to North Traverse T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Standard Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Totally Spurious T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Watchman's (Northeast) Ridge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
West Buttress of the South Peak T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
West Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
West Face of the North Peak T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Serl and Erin McGann, 1987
Page Views: 56 total, 1/month
Shared By: Dru on Mar 19, 2009
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

This route was originally mistaken for the west buttress of the south peak during bad weather. Climb the rib right of (across the gully) from Mars Western until it flattens off after a few pitches. Cross the gully leftwards and pick up the major basalt dyke trending up and left; climb this, crossing the line of Mars Western, to the crest of the West Buttress of the South Peak and follow that route to the summit of the south peak.

Location

Approach via Daiphy Lake and climb the rightmost minor rib on the southwest face of the south peak. Descend the south ridge of the south peak as for the west buttress descent.

Protection

Light rack to 3"

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