Type: Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Don Serl and Erin McGann, 1987
Page Views: 548 total · 3/month
Shared By: Drew Brayshaw on Mar 19, 2009
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

This route was originally mistaken for the west buttress of the south peak during bad weather. Climb the rib right of (across the gully) from Mars Western until it flattens off after a few pitches. Cross the gully leftwards and pick up the major basalt dyke trending up and left; climb this, crossing the line of Mars Western, to the crest of the West Buttress of the South Peak and follow that route to the summit of the south peak.

Location Suggest change

Approach via Daiphy Lake and climb the rightmost minor rib on the southwest face of the south peak. Descend the south ridge of the south peak as for the west buttress descent.

Protection Suggest change

Light rack to 3"


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